Force Majeure Wine at Flickinger Wines

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USA Red

Force Majeure

2009

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series I Proprietary Blend

$60

WA 91 (12/2012): The Force Majeure 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series I is a blend of two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with, notes McBride a bit oddly, “healthy doses of P(etit) V(erdot) and Cabernet Franc for our take on ‘Left Bank’.” (That said, there is also a bit of Merlot.) In any case, it’s vinified by Ben Smith of Cadence, for more on whose attraction to Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot consult my notes on recent offerings from that winery. The herbaceous side of these cepages dominates in the nose, though in a pleasantly pungent and reasonably complex way. Mint, arbor vitae, and cassis take on a chocolate coating on the glycerol-rich palate, and this finishes with an admirable counterpoint – somehow avoiding too bifurcated a sense – between bittersweetly herbal and torrefied, confitured character. I wouldn’t have guessed that the barrels were 70% new, and there is what I like to think of as a Washington-typical energetic finishing ping. This ought to be worth following for at least the next half dozen years.

2011

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series II Proprietary Blend

$65

2009

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series III Proprietary Blend

$65

WA 91 (12/2012): The Force Majeure 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series III employs four clones of Syrah and was vinified by Mark McNeilly (with his assistant Mike Macmorran) of the Mark Ryan winery, who chose to utilize just one-third new barriques, in which the wine finished its primary fermentation. Vanilla and marzipan lend a surprisingly confectionary cast on a glycerol-rich palate to an amalgam of cherry preserves and creme de cassis, happily underlain by suggestions of roasted red meats that lend saliva inducement and savory counterpoint in a lingering, luscious finish. I was surprised at the extent to which this reflected its oak component given the stated percentage of new wood; but it was on this occasion that I made the following important discovery: in Washington, when vintners speak of “neutral” barrels, they may well – as in this instance – be referring to barrels that have been used only once previously! My intuition suggests that this will be worth following for at least 5-7 years.

2010

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series III Proprietary Blend

$65

VM 91+ (11/2013): Bright ruby. Sexy, vibrant aromas of black raspberry and blueberry lifted by high notes of flowers, pepper and spices. Very pure, juicy and intense, with strong but integrated acidity giving excellent definition to the flavors of blackberry, blueberry, violet, pepper and spices. I'd like to have seen a bit more syrah funk but there's no denying this wine's intensity, firm tannic spine and excellent length. Nothing overripe or thick about it. Stephen Tanzer.

2011

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series III Proprietary Blend

$65

VM 91 (12/2014): Bright red-ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, cassis, licorice, brown spices and smoky oak show a liqueur-like quality. At once lush and lively, with enticing inner-mouth violet perfume framing and lifting the flavors of black fruits, licorice and mint. An edge of harmonious acidity restrains the wine’s sweetness today. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and a note of exotic smoky oak. Stephen Tanzer.

2009

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series IV Proprietary Blend

$70

WA 88 (12/2012): Force Majeure’s 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series IV is dominated by Merlot (supported by 23% Cabernet Sauvignon plus smaller amounts of other Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) and vinified by Carolyn Lakewold of Donedei Wines, whose background and inspiration – accordingly to McBride and Johnson – is with Northern Italian wine (though I can’t say I would have detected this). At 13.8% alcohol this is intentionally significantly lighter than its Collaboration Series siblings, and the absence of press wine was evidently intended to enhance textural refinement and relative levity. The nose here, though, is exceedingly spirituous as well as torrefied, for an impression that resembles dried cherries macerated in cognac, kirsch, and chocolate syrup, characteristics that combine for an almost liqueur-like though texturally not notably alluring palate impression. Toasted praline, cocoa powder, and caramelized wood resin (from half-new French and American oak) combine with the desiccated manifestation of cherry for a finish that’s slightly drying despite its superficial sense of sweetness. I wouldn’t want to speculate on this wine’s aging potential except to say that – admittedly in lieu of any directly relevant experience – I am somewhat skeptical on that count. Certainly, though, this is striking stuff, and I’ve no doubt there will be those who find its personality more enticing than do I.

2010

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series IV Proprietary Blend

$70

WA 94 (6/2013): The 2010 Collaboration Series IV is a Merlot-dominated blend that’s made by Carolyn Lakewold of Donedei Wines. The stated goal with this cuvee is to straddle the line between old-world and Nld World in style, and while I’m not sure how close they got to that mark, I can say that it’s certainly a beautiful wine. Possessing an inky purple color as well as an up-front, intense bouquet of black and blue fruits, violets, licorice, leather and liquid flowers, it flows onto the palate with a full-bodied, hedonistically styled texture that carries solid freshness and plenty of framing tannin that emerges on the finish. There’s a smidge of volatile acidity here, yet the wine handles it and is a plush, downright sexy effort that’s hard to resist. It should have over a decade of evolution. Drink now-2023.

2009

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series Sangiovese

$40

2010

Ciel du Cheval Collaboration Series V Cabernet Sauvignon

$70

VM 90 (11/2013): Bright, healthy ruby-red. Blueberry, cassis and menthol on the nose, along with a lower-toned whiff of nut skin; smells rather energetically extracted. Then lush and large-scaled on the palate, with sweet currant and raspberry flavors showing noteworthy depth. The huge tannins parch the tongue a bit, but the fruit outlasts them on the long finish. Definitely no-holds-barred! Stephen Tanzer.

2009

Collaboration Series V Proprietary Blend

$70

2010

Collaboration Series V Proprietary Blend

$70

WA 96 (6/2013): The most full-throttle of the lineup, the 2010 Collaboration Series V is comprised of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, from Ciel du Cheval blocks planted in 1975 and 1982, that was aged in 100% new French oak. Made by Chris Gorman, it offers up a decadent array of creme de cassis, smoked herbs, chocolate, roasted meats and freshly sharpened pencil-like qualities on the nose. Full-bodied, seamless and even elegant on the palate, yet with layers of fruit and texture, it has clean, integrated acidity, superb polish to its tannin and big minerality that emerges on the finish. Certainly impressive now, it still needs another 3-4 years of bottle age and will shine for 15 years or more. Drink 2015-2028+

2011

Collaboration Series V Proprietary Blend

$70

VM 91+ (12/2014): Bright, medium red-ruby. Subdued, pure aromas of crushed blackberry, blueberry, licorice pastille and violet, complicated by leather and bitter chocolate nuances. Tightly wound and youthfully backward, with an insidious liquid velvet character currently hidden by strong inner-mouth tension. Finishes with serious tongue-dusting tannins, very good grip and verve, and lingering notes of cassis, smoked meat, leather and exotic oak. Stephen Tanzer.

2010

Collaboration Series VI Proprietary Blend

$40

WA 94+ (6/2013): A brilliant Southern Rhone-like blend of 56% Mourvedre, 38% Syrah and 6% Grenache that was fermented all in concrete and aged in neutral French oak puncheons, the 2010 Collaboration Series VI was made by James Mantone of Syncline Wines. Spectacular, with vividly defined aromas of blackberry, pepper, flowers, underbrush and licorice, it flows onto the palate with lively acidity, polished tannin and an elegant, seamless texture that has no hard edges and an overall classy, refined feel. Already approachable and complex, it will benefit from short-term cellaring and drink nicely for 10-12 years. Drink now-2025.

WS 92 (10/2013): Firm tannins underlie blackberry, currant and roasted meat flavors on a medium-weight frame, coming together on the plush finish. Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache. Drink now through 2018. 220 cases made.

VM 91+ (12/2013): (56% mourvedre, 38% syrah and 6% grenache; made by James Mantone of Syncline; fermented in square concrete bins and 500-liter puncheons): Good bright, medium ruby-red. High-toned aromas of red berries, red pepper and licorice, plus a whiff of tree bark. At once sweet and bright, with the red fruit flavors accented by spices and pepper. Lovely energetic, intense mourvedre here. A very successful blend with sound natural acidity. Most of the Force Majeure Vineyard's mourvedre fruit was stolen in 2010, with the thieves leaving only the outside rows intact.

2011

Collaboration Series VI Proprietary Blend

$40

WA 92 (6/2014): The estate’s Rhone-styled blend is the Collaboration VI. Comprised of 47% Mourvedre, 42% Syrah and 11% Grenache, the 2011 Collaboration Series VI was fermented in concrete eggs (some whole-cluster inclusion) and aged 20 months in 500-liter French oak puncheons. Made by James Mantone (of Syncline), it offers classic white pepper, ground herbs, earth and assorted dark fruit characteristics to go with a medium to full-bodied, pure and beautifully textured feel on the palate. Elegant, fresh and with a terrific finish, it will evolve gracefully for 10-12 years.

2011

Force Majeure Vyd. Collaboration Series Cabernet Sauvignon

$60

WA 93-95+ (6/2013): Coming all from the new, incredibly steep estate vineyard located high up near the top of Red Mountain, the 2011 Collaboration Series Cabernet Sauvignon is distinct in the lineup for its deep black currant, tobacco, underbrush, violets and mineral-loaded profile. More rounded and supple on the palate than some of the Ciel du Cheval bottlings, it has a rich, weighty mouthfeel, knockout purity of fruit and enough silky tannin to allow it to evolve gracefully for at least a decade. This is only the fourth leaf for the vineyard and hats off to the Force Majeure crew for having the vision to push the envelope on where grape vines can be planted and for the perseverance to work those steep hillsides. Drink now-2021.

2016

Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

$150

JD 99 (4/2019): The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Estate is a thrilling effort from winemaker Todd Alexander that rates with some of the most monumental wines to come out of Washington State. Based on 100% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from their estate vineyard on Red Mountain, brought up in mostly new barrels, it reveals a saturated purple color that's followed by a rich, primordial bouquet of crème de cassis, espresso roast, crushed rock, and graphite. It needs considerable air to start to show its potential yet is a full-bodied, powerful wine that has subtle oak, plenty of sweet tannins, and a huge, layered finish that won't quit. It's the tannin management that's truly spectacular. This brilliant wine needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years and will keep for 2-3 decades. (Drink between 2023-2048).

WA 93+ (12/2019): Opening with a fresh core of black fruit and minerality on the nose, the 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon wafts with blackberry, crème de cassis and dusty purple flowers. Full-bodied in the mouth, the wine is strict and rigid, with a lingering spice through the mid-palate. It continues to show a mineral tension with dusty black fruit, spiced plum and nuanced oak flavors on the long, thoughtful finish.

VM 93 (11/2018): Saturated bright ruby! Pungent, primary, essence-of-Cabernet aromas of cassis, black cherry, graphite, licorice pastille, tobacco leaf, mint and herbs, lifted by a violet topnote. Wonderful dense, thick, saline and sweet, showing a very ripe, chewy, slightly chocolatey character that reminded me of a Napa Valley cult Cabernet. (I should note that winemaker Todd Alexander previously spent four years as winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyard.) But this wonderfully savory wine may well have more energy than its Napa equivalents. Finishes very long, with huge, thick, totally ripe, palate-saturating tannins but no hard edges. Shows an almost caramelly Pomerol-like creaminess in the mouth, with its green qualities receding into the background. This wine lacks only the refinement for an even higher score. This appears to have been little affected by its recent bottling in August but I wonder if it will shut down in bottle over the coming year or so. (Drink between 2019-2025). Stephen Tanzer.

2016

Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Bin-Soiled Label

$150

USA White

Force Majeure

2011

Force Majeure Vyd. Collaboration Series Viognier

$28

WA 89 (12/2012): Like its predecessor (which represented the debut of fruit from their steep estate site), Force Majeure’s 2011 Viognier takes two-thirds of its fruit from neighboring Ciel du Cheval. It was vinified by Mike MacMorran of Mark Ryan Winery in older barriques plus a 25% share in same-sized stainless steel “barrels” (though future installments will employ egg-shaped concrete vessels), with lees stirring and with malolactic transformation blocked on some of them. Scents of acacia and honeysuckle, pear and honeydew melon as well as intimations of cress anticipate inner-mouth florality, juicy fruit, and faint prickle that combine with a glycerol-rich, subtly creamy texture. A bitter note not unfamiliar from this grape is slightly discordantly superimposed over tartness of green apple in an otherwise persistently ripely-fruited finish. My suspicion is that this will be best drunk over the next 12-18 months.