WA 92 (2/2014): The 1982 Echezeaux Grand Cru from Henri Jayer is one of those wines where I am so glad to have been able to assess it over the course of a couple of hours, here, at a splendid lunch in Hong Kong. This mercurial wine commences with a typical 1982 nose: a little diffuse and ferrous, musky with Girolles and black truffle. The palate is nicely balanced but rustic and loose-knit, and over the course of 60 minutes those threads tend to loosen and it feels like it is falling apart. Then it miraculously seems to embroider itself back together, like a ragdoll coming back to life. It gains cohesion, weight and intensity, and by the end of the lunch it is probably drinking better than ever. This is quite an astonishing, cerebral wine.
 
BH 87 (4/2018): I have had mixed luck with the Jayer '82s over the years with some bottles showing quite well in the context of what is typical for the vintage and others showing moderately funky aromas that appear to be rot-tinged and this most recent bottle was unfortunately one of them. Moderate bricking. A sous-bois dominated nose is funky and vegetal with a hint of barnyard. On the plus side the mid-palate texture of the middle weight flavors is appealing but the acceptably long finish is slightly dry and warm. Tasted twice in the last year and while both bottles were certainly drinkable, it would be fair to say that neither was special. (Drink starting 2018).