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Inventory updated: Tue, Jul 21, 2026 04:02 PM cst
We are sorry, but that item has sold out. Please see other wines from this grower and region/vintage below.
| Producer |
Vint. |
Wine |
Price |
Qty |
Order |
| | Germany |
| Weingut Emrich-Schonleber |
2009 |
Mineral Riesling  |
$39 |
4 |
|
| |
| WA 90 (2/2011): Informed by fruit from some moderately steep slopes in the Fruhlingsplatzchen and Halenberg as well from the cool Rosenberg behind the village, the Schonlebers’ 2009 Riesling trocken Mineral manages to maintain a delightful sense of buoyancy even at 12.5% alcohol. This displays a deep sense of salinity one often associates with quartzite-rich sites, and which here threads its way invigoratingly and saliva-inducingly through a stream of lemon, grapefruit, white peach, and red berries. Cooling high-toned suggestions of mint and oregano add to the sense of refreshment in this long-finishing Riesling that ought to perform well for at least the next 4-5 years. |
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|
2020 |
Monzinger Fruhlingspatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$648.99 |
1 |
|
| |
| JS 97 (9/2021): A breathtaking wine that has all the mineral depth and concentration you associate with a Grand Cru, but also a wide spectrum of very fine citrus and berry aromas. Then it splash lands in an explosion of fresh-herb aromas. Drink or hold. |
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|
2022 |
Monzinger Fruhlingspatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$66.99 |
10 |
|
| |
| VM 93-95 (9/2023): The 2022 Riesling Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Grosses Gewächs opens with a sunny, friendly creaminess, and a slight overtone of mango sets an accent. The palate is serene, bright, absolutely focused on lemon and a little lemony pith, but with a luminous, slender creaminess. The textural aspect holds spice, which is not apparent yet but will reveal itself. It also gives structure to this light, bright, filigree wine. Subtle length extends that lovely, gentle pithiness. Anne Krebiehl. |
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|
2019 |
Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$79 |
6 |
|
| |
WA 96-98 (8/2020): The 2019 Frühlingsplätzchen GG opens with an excitingly pure, precise and mineral bouquet of ripe and refined Riesling aromas, wet red slate and attractive reductive notes. On the palate, this is a very pure but juicy and very elegant Riesling with ripe and intense fruit aromas that are swirled around by great finesse and elegance as well as the piquant, mineral grip and salinity of the Frühlingsplätzchen. This is precision at its very best and surely one of the finest (and purest) Rieslings you can find in the Nahe Valley from the 2019 vintage. It is most likely the finest Frühlingsplätzchen I have ever tasted from any producer. Tasted as a sample in May 2020.
JS 98 (8/2020): How could this be such a playful wine, yet so deep? So many subtle berry and herbal nuances, also nectarine and peach aromas. Most importantly, they're married to both serious elegance and great depth. Breathtaking mineral freshness at the very long finish. Drink or hold. |
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|
2020 |
Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs (1.5 L) |
$175 |
1 |
|
| |
| JS 97 (9/2021): A breathtaking wine that has all the mineral depth and concentration you associate with a Grand Cru, but also a wide spectrum of very fine citrus and berry aromas. Then it splash lands in an explosion of fresh-herb aromas. Drink or hold. |
|
|
2021 |
Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$69 |
3 |
|
| |
WA 97 (12/2022): Werner Schönleber served the 2021 Frühlingsplätzchen GG after the Halenberg, which has never been the case here in 20 years, but knowing Werner's passion for the purity and freshness of this terroir, this makes completely sense. I remember I liked the 2019 Frühlingsplätzchen better than the Halenberg when it was young, and also from the 2021 vintage I adore the purity, brightness and flinty finesse of the Frühlingsplätzchen which is definitely the brighter, uplifted and purer Riesling. The finish is enormously salty and savory and reveals lemon fruit bitters on the aftertaste. This is life from stone, and it has a damn serious, very long and saline finish. Natural cork. 12% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022.
JS 95 (7/2022): Complex nose of pink and yellow grapefruit, peach and spring flowers. A super-elegant, dry Nahe riesling that marries plenty of juicy fruit with excellent concentration and vibrant minerality that leaps out at you. A slew of wild-berry and rose-hip character adds to the excitement at the dangerously crisp, wet-stone finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2024. |
|
|
2020 |
Monzinger Fruhtau Riesling |
$29.99 |
3 |
|
| |
|
|
2021 |
Monzinger Fruhtau Riesling |
$29.99 |
17 |
|
| |
|
|
2017 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$99 |
2 |
|
| |
JS 98 (9/2018): Welcome to the topnotch riesling zone! Enormous concentration and drive within a very sleek frame, in which peaches and citrus fruit, together with powerful minerals, ripple like the honed muscles of an Olympic athlete. The finish is enormously long but super-elegant. Drink or hold.
VM 95 (4/2019): The nose is dominated by intimations of red currant, red raspberry, lime and grapefruit; though, to be sure, there are also intimations of marine salinity and crushed stone. Once the wine hits your palate, there is a near-electric spark and a rush of bright juiciness allied to mouthwatering salinity and invigorating crystalline stony impingements. There’s also a suggestion of bittersweet inner-mouth florality more typical for Frühlingsplätzchen. A sense of tightly-coiled energy is allied to silken texture and a sense of buoyancy improbable for such a palpably extract-rich wine of around 12.5% alcohol. The vibrant, refreshing, multi-faceted finish delivers tingling, crunchy fresh fruit and myriad mineral notes, tugging not just on the salivary glands but on the cheeks and mandible. David Schildknecht.
WA 94+ (10/2019): The 2017 Halenberg Riesling GG is deep, ripe and intense on the flinty, still-reductive nose. On the palate, this is a rich and creamy, tight and mineral dry Riesling with lots of salt and tension. It's elegant and salty, fresh and crystalline but also a bit austere at this moment. A classic that needs its time to shine. Be patient! Tasted in July 2019. |
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|
2018 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$79 |
3 |
|
| |
JS 99 (9/2019): This has discreet aromatics, showing very fine stones and yellow grapefruit with a delicate, lemon-blossom perfume. The palate has a scintillatingly intense and focused feel with laser-guided acidity, driving a very long, pure and thrilling palate. Yellow citrus fruit abounds. Such precision is really special and the concentration in 2018 is immense. Drink or hold.
WA 95+ (7/2019): The 2018 Halenberg Riesling GG is super precise, pure and fresh on the intense and stony, still reductive nose, with its notes of candied lemon and lime (that means: slightly greenish). On the palate, this is a rich and concentrated yet elegant, silky-textured, vital and powerful, persistently salty and tensioned Halenberg that is far too young to discover its full potential today. It's rich and elegant, refined and slightly tannic and needs time to develop its full potential. Tasted in July 2019.
VM 93 (6/2020): Crushed stone and sea breeze along with zesty lime and grapefruit characterize both the pungent nose and the formidably concentrated palate impression. Firmer in feel than the corresponding Frühlingsplätzchen and with sharper, more clearly defined citricity and stony inflections, this shares sense of fullness (at something over 13% alcohol) with the present collection’s other dry wines, but evinces no heaviness and at most the merest hint of heat. Mouthwatering salinity and a shimmering sense of crystalline stony impingement rather unexpectedly rise to the occasion on a finish whose sheer fruit intensity is so prominent. David Schildknecht. |
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|
2019 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$79 |
5 |
|
| |
JS 98 (8/2020): A bundle of brilliant contradictions make this exotic, smoky, very concentrated but also light-footed dry riesling a masterpiece. Very serious and complex finish that doesn't want to let go. Drink or hold.
WA 95-96+ (8/2020): Schönleber's 2019 Halenberg GG is ripe and intense on the nose and indicates a rich and powerful yet elegant and complex Riesling with darker tones and flinty aromas that become more evident with aeration, while the initially intense fruit aroma gets reduced. On the palate, this is a rich and textured, pretty juicy but structured Halenberg with fine tannins and a long and intense finish. Compared to the Frühlingsplätzchen, the Halenberg is always late in its development, but as in 2018, I tend to prefer the former from the 2019 vintage at least in its very youth. For now, the Halenberg seems to be very ripe and rich and is structured by tannins rather than the crystallinity of the terroir. Tasted as a sample in May 2020 and I’m already excited to learn how the wine will develop in the coming weeks.
VM 93 (6/2020): Crushed stone and sea breeze along with zesty lime and grapefruit characterize both the pungent nose and the formidably concentrated palate impression. Firmer in feel than the corresponding Frühlingsplätzchen and with sharper, more clearly defined citricity and stony inflections, this shares sense of fullness (at something over 13% alcohol) with the present collection’s other dry wines, but evinces no heaviness and at most the merest hint of heat. Mouthwatering salinity and a shimmering sense of crystalline stony impingement rather unexpectedly rise to the occasion on a finish whose sheer fruit intensity is so prominent. David Schildknecht. |
|
|
2020 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (1.5 L) |
$175 |
1 |
|
| |
JS 99 (7/2021): Enormously fine and subtle nose. The ravishing but very delicate apricot aroma pulls you into the profound mineral depths of this dry-riesling masterpiece. The salty minerality at the finish just doesn’t want to stop and gives you a great feeling of how the most dramatic landscapes of this region look. Drink or hold.
WA 96 (9/2021): The 2020 Halenberg GG is pure, precise and fresh on the nose that offers flinty notes of crushed stones, herbs and lemons. Crystalline, refined and juicy on the palate, this is a dense and intense, tightly structured and persistently salty Halenberg with fine tannins and great purity. Tasted from a bottle that was opened three days before, the bouquet is deep and intense but pure and salty with ripe lemon and crushed stone aromas. The palate is full, dense and tight, with serious tannin structure and lingering salinity. The combination of both wines is amazing and combines purity and freshness with complexity and elegance. The salty finish is the leitmotiv of all three versions. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July 2021. |
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|
2020 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (3x1.5L)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$729.99 |
1 |
|
| |
JS 99 (7/2021): Enormously fine and subtle nose. The ravishing but very delicate apricot aroma pulls you into the profound mineral depths of this dry-riesling masterpiece. The salty minerality at the finish just doesn’t want to stop and gives you a great feeling of how the most dramatic landscapes of this region look. Drink or hold.
WA 96 (9/2021): The 2020 Halenberg GG is pure, precise and fresh on the nose that offers flinty notes of crushed stones, herbs and lemons. Crystalline, refined and juicy on the palate, this is a dense and intense, tightly structured and persistently salty Halenberg with fine tannins and great purity. Tasted from a bottle that was opened three days before, the bouquet is deep and intense but pure and salty with ripe lemon and crushed stone aromas. The palate is full, dense and tight, with serious tannin structure and lingering salinity. The combination of both wines is amazing and combines purity and freshness with complexity and elegance. The salty finish is the leitmotiv of all three versions. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July 2021. |
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|
2021 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$89 |
2 |
|
| |
JS 98 (7/2022): The vibrant white-peach, wild-herb and floral bouquet of this stunning GG makes a serious statement. Very compact and concentrated, it’s only just beginning to reveal its abundant treasures. Super-focused and precise, it grows and grows as it shoots over the palate at great speed. Incredible depth of wet-stone minerality at the super-long finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
WA 97 (12/2022): The 2021 Halenberg Riesling GG is coolish, fresh, pure, extraordinarily deep and complex on the ripe and concentrated yet precise nose that reveals notes of crushed stones and iodine. Powerful, rich and complex on the palate, this is a full-bodied, dense and very intense Riesling with a concentrated fruit core and a firm (mineral) structure that holds and even uplifts this giant that a will develop into an iconic German Riesling over the years in the bottle. It is still tight and youthful but possibly the greatest Halenberg I have tasted in more than 20 years. Natural cork. 12.5% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022. |
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|
2022 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$520.99 |
3 |
|
| |
|
|
2015 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Kabinett |
$35 |
6 |
|
| |
| WA 90 (12/2016): The 2015 Riesling Monzinger Kabinett is very clear, ripe and spicy on the nose, but it's also piquant in its stoniness. On the palate, it has lovely elegance, finesse and purity, and the 42 grams of residual sugar are perfectly integrated. The finish is stimulatingly light and salty. This is a picture book Kabinett. |
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|
2019 |
Monzinger Niederberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs |
$45 |
1 |
|
| |
| WA 92-93 (8/2020): The 2019 Monzinger Niederberg 1G (produced in 2018 for the first time) opens with intense, ripe and clear Riesling fruit intertwined with flinty notes. Intense and pure on the palate, this is a full-bodied, elegant, ripe, very mineral but balanced and even charming premier cru with a seriously structured, pure and salty finish that displays perfectly ripe Riesling fruit again. Tasted as a sample in May 2020. |
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2019 |
Monzinger Niederberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs Scuffed Label |
$45 |
1 |
|
| |
| WA 92-93 (8/2020): The 2019 Monzinger Niederberg 1G (produced in 2018 for the first time) opens with intense, ripe and clear Riesling fruit intertwined with flinty notes. Intense and pure on the palate, this is a full-bodied, elegant, ripe, very mineral but balanced and even charming premier cru with a seriously structured, pure and salty finish that displays perfectly ripe Riesling fruit again. Tasted as a sample in May 2020. |
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|
2019 |
Monzinger Niederberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs Lightly Bin-Soiled Label |
$45 |
1 |
|
| |
| WA 92-93 (8/2020): The 2019 Monzinger Niederberg 1G (produced in 2018 for the first time) opens with intense, ripe and clear Riesling fruit intertwined with flinty notes. Intense and pure on the palate, this is a full-bodied, elegant, ripe, very mineral but balanced and even charming premier cru with a seriously structured, pure and salty finish that displays perfectly ripe Riesling fruit again. Tasted as a sample in May 2020. |
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| Producer |
Vint. |
Wine |
Price |
Qty |
Order |
| | Germany |
| Weingut Hermann Donnhoff |
2022 |
Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$723.99 |
1 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$722.99 |
1 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$338.99 |
4 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$402.99 |
5 |
|
| |
|
| Weingut Emrich-Schonleber |
2022 |
Monzinger Fruhlingspatzchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs |
$66.99 |
10 |
|
| |
| VM 93-95 (9/2023): The 2022 Riesling Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Grosses Gewächs opens with a sunny, friendly creaminess, and a slight overtone of mango sets an accent. The palate is serene, bright, absolutely focused on lemon and a little lemony pith, but with a luminous, slender creaminess. The textural aspect holds spice, which is not apparent yet but will reveal itself. It also gives structure to this light, bright, filigree wine. Subtle length extends that lovely, gentle pithiness. Anne Krebiehl. |
|
|
2022 |
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$520.99 |
3 |
|
| |
|
| Weingut Keller |
2022 |
Riesling Trocken "RR" |
$74.99 |
1 |
|
| |
|
| Egon Muller |
2022 |
Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$3,728.99 |
3 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$1,175.99 |
10 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$1,440.99 |
3 |
|
| |
|
| JJ Prum |
2022 |
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (1.5 L) |
$139 |
2 |
|
| |
| VM 92 (10/2023): The 2022 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese is rather shy. The palate tingles with tangerine, ripe, rounded, aromatic, and full of tangy, zesty, sweet, ripe citrus. Wonderfully expressive on the mid-palate and with a subtle finish, full of those vivid aromatics. Anne Krebiehl. |
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|
2022 |
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$355.97 |
1 |
|
| |
| VM 92 (10/2023): The 2022 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese is rather shy. The palate tingles with tangerine, ripe, rounded, aromatic, and full of tangy, zesty, sweet, ripe citrus. Wonderfully expressive on the mid-palate and with a subtle finish, full of those vivid aromatics. Anne Krebiehl. |
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|
2022 |
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$322.97 |
1 |
|
| |
| VM 93 (10/2023): The 2022 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett has the slightest crackle of flint on the shy nose. Fennel and nutmeg appear before orange peel joins in. The palate is light, with a lovely, smooth, lithe backdrop of sweet mandarin and clementine. The 2022 is tart, sweet, ripe, aromatic and rather serene with just a touch of zestiness. Lovely length and much charm. Anne Krebiehl. |
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2022 |
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$378.97 |
1 |
|
| |
| JS 96 (12/2023): Here’s a very classic Mosel Spatlese with exactly the combination of richness, elegance and delicacy that makes this category unique. Such delicate white peach and sliced pear, rose and honeysuckle aromas. Very long finish that is as succulent as it is refined. You just want to linger there for as long as you can. Drink or hold. |
|
| Schafer-Frohlich |
2022 |
Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Grosses Gewaches (6x750ML)
ETA 90-120 Days; No cancellations or returns. This item may be subject to tariffs. |
$558.97 |
2 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Felseneck Riesling Auslese (375 ML) |
$49.99 |
6 |
|
| |
|
|
2022 |
Felseneck Riesling Kabinett |
$43.99 |
9 |
|
| |
|
| Producer |
Vint. |
Wine |
Price |
Qty |
Order |
| | Bordeaux Red |
| Ch. Ausone |
2003 |
St. Emilion Bin-Soiled Label; Scuffed Label |
$649 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (4/2006): The 2003 Ausone is off the charts in terms of richness. While I gave a 3-digit score to the 2000, I think this profoundly concentrated wine may be even more sublime and exotic. Its inky/blue/purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of flowers, crushed rocks, sweet raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and God knows what else. The impression is one of extraordinary richness and purity, and a multilayered texture yet a surreal lightness as well as laser-like precision. This exquisite offering must be tasted to be believed. Incredibly young, it will undoubtedly close down over the next few years, re-emerging after 15-20 years. It should last for 70-100 years. It is a wine for anthology!
VM 95+ (6/2006): Full ruby. Black raspberry, mocha, minerals, graphite and nutty oak on the superripe nose. Extravagantly rich and sweet in the mouth without coming off as heavy. This boasts extraordinary fruit intensity and verve (it's hard to imagine cabernet franc better than this), and finishes with great palate-staining persistence. But this powerfully tannic wine may already be starting to shut down in the bottle. Like the 2005, it will need a decade of aging at a minimum, and possibly a lot longer. |
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|
2021 |
St. Emilion (1.5 L) 2021 en Primeur Release |
$1,350 |
4 |
|
| |
WA 97-100 (4/2022): A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot, the 2021 Ausone is a strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of wild blueberries and raspberries mingled with rose petals, violets, exotic spices, vine smoke and blood orange, it's full-bodied, seamless and sensual, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, layered mid-palate of breathtaking precision and intensity without weight. Built around bright acids and ultra-refined tannins and concluding with a resonant, perfumed finish, this profound young Ausone represents the essence of this great limestone terroir. I am not in the habit of drinking six-month-old Bordeaux cask samples, but this is one wine that would have sorely tempted me to make an exception to that rule if my appointment at the estate hadn't been one of the first of the day!
JA 95 (4/2022): Violet edging, jewel red depths. There is austerity on the tannins here, but also great depths through the palate, with controlled but juicy loganberry and raspberry fruits, and waves of saffron, creamy red-fruit puree, crushed rock, cold ash and salt-cracker salinity. Subdued, with hidden power and complexity. A tough year for this stable of wines - or rather proof of their exceptionally high standards, making a half production of Simard, no Haut Simard, tiny amounts of Fonbel and almost certainly no Moulin St Georges. The last year that Ausone will be recorded as a Premier Grand Cru Classé A, before publication of the new ranking in September 2022. Harvest September 30 to October 6, 100% new oak. In conversion to organic farming since 2020, Philippe Baillarguet cellar master. Average vine age 55 years.
VM 93-95 (5/2022): The 2021 Ausone was picked on September 30 for the Merlot and October 4–6 for the Cabernet Franc, with a higher percentage of Cabernet Franc because some of the Merlot was deselected into the Chapelle. Matured in 90% new oak, this has a fragrant and floral bouquet, more iris than violet, revealing a hint of seaweed in the background. The palate is well-defined, quite strict and focused, certainly one of the more mineral-driven Ausones that I have encountered at this stage. The limestone terroir is evident on the finish. Again, this is a little leaner and less flamboyant than recent vintages. Having tasted Ausone at this prenatal stage for over 20 years, I don’t find the thrilling "drive” or the pyrotechnics of the 2001, 2010, 2016 or 2019. Yet this Ausone is compelling in its own uncompromising way, and I wouldn't want it any different. |
|
| Ch. Beausejour (J. Duffau-Lagarosse) |
2022 |
St. Emilion 2023 en Primeur Release |
$159 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 96-98+ (5/2023): The 2022 Château Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse) looks to be another brilliant wine from this incredible terroir located just outside the village of Saint-Emilion. Based on 69% Merlot and 31% Cabernet Franc resting in 68% new oak, it sports a dense purple hue as well as a floral, intense bouquet of cassis, liquid violets, black cherries, truffly earth, and graphite. Hitting 14.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.5, it's full-bodied and has a pure, layered, opulent mouthfeel and just about perfect tannins. There's a little bit more clay in the soils at this estate (there's still plenty of limestone) which gives the wines plenty of power and richness, and the 2022 holds onto a beautiful sense of elegance.
VM 95-97 (5/2023): The 2022 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse was picked on 6-9 September for the Merlot and 23 for the Cabernet Franc, representing the highest percentage to date. It was cropped at 42hL/ha with 14.9% alcohol and a pH of 3.5. Aged in 68% new oak, it has a delicate nose that completely disguises that summer' warmth. Precise redcurrant and raspberry fruit aromas are laced with minerals. The limestone soils percolate and evince the estate' style under Joséphine Duffau Lagarrosse. It seems to deepen, to "stretch out" with aeration, manifesting more darker fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, mineral-driven and almost pastille-like in terms of purity with its mélange of red and blue fruit and granular texture. Background notes of tobacco and black truffle begin to surface with time. There' just a trace of white pepper on the finish. Precise, focused and with plenty of substance, this is a characterful and intellectually satisfying Duffau. Most importantly, not only will it be flippin' delicious, but you get the sense that Joséphine is only just getting started. Neal Martin.
WA 95-97 (5/2023): The 2022 Beauséjour (Duffau Lagarrosse) promises to be the finest wine that this superb limestone terroir has produced in at least several decades. In recent years, the quality of the site always shone through, but it was sometimes obscured by an impactful vinification and élevage (plenty of creamy new oak and malolactic fermentation in barrel). Much of the estate's Cabernet Franc was frequently eliminated from the blend. Joséphine Duffau Lagarrosse has changed that, incorporating fully 31% Cabernet Franc in the blend to deliver a complex and compelling wine evocative of wild berries, plums, rose petals and violets. Medium to full-bodied, pure and vibrant, it's supple and layered, with beautifully refined tannins, terrific depth at the core and a long, chalky finish.
JA 98-100 (5/2023): Just so good, so much uplift, direction and power, with vivid violet reflections to the ruby coloured fruit. Intense and concentrated on the opening, then a soaring limestone juice comes in through the mid palate, with the whole thing showing precision and character. A jumbled, joyful mix of blueberry, cassis, peony, roses, pummice stone and slate limestone, cocoa bean and coffee, showing real depth and seduction. This is always one of the wines that for me most leans in to the character of limestone, and you really feel the full impact in this hot year. Old vines 45 years average. Stopped all punch down during fermentation, now only soft pumpovers and infusion. Axel Marchal and Julien Viaud consultants. Highest Cabernet Franc percentage in the estate's history, and a full 40hl/h yield, 3.5ph. Potential 100. |
|
| Ch. Cheval-Blanc |
2020 |
St. Emilion (6X750ML) 6-Bottle OWC |
$3,500 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2023): The Grand Vin 2020 Château Cheval Blanc checks in as a blend of 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon that was raised, as always, in 100% new French oak. As usual with Cheval Blanc, it's primarily about finesse and elegance, as well as complexity, and exhibits a deep purple hue as well as a kaleidoscopic bouquet of sweet red and black fruits, spring flowers, spicy incense, loamy earth, and smoke tobacco. Absolutely flawless on the palate, it's full-bodied, has perfectly integrated oak, ripe, silky tannins, and a gorgeous finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. This powerful, concentrated Cheval Blanc offers pleasure even today but warrants 7-8 years of bottle age and will see its 40th birthday in fine form.
VM 99 (2/2023): The 2020 Cheval Blanc is eternal, seamless and exceptionally beautiful. All the elements are so well put together. Rose petal, blood orange, raspberry jam and cinnamon all take shape in the glass. Above all else, the 2020 Cheval Blanc is a wine of mind-blowing balance. Hints of mocha, raspberry jam, pomegranate and spice emerge with time in the glass. Cheval is quite simply one of the truly great wines of the vintage. Antonio Galloni.
JA 99 (5/2021): Spice, anis, rosemary, blackcurrant leaf, redcurrants, mint and peonies - the full array of aromatics are on display here, and there is an enveloping aspect to the fruit once you get to the body of the wine. The tannins are compact and powerful but they are wrapped in plump raspberry and blackberry brambled fruits. The wine feels full of life, with acidity that pulls the palate forward from the first moment, before austerity kicks in on the finish and closes things in, suggesting an extremely long life ahead. Hard to argue with this. 71% of overall production. The driest year at Cheval Blanc for 50 years (since 1959). Could go up after tasting in bottle, a potential 100 points.
WA 96 (4/2023): The 2020 Cheval Blanc wafts from the glass with aromas of mulberries, plums and cherries mingled with hints of rose petals, licorice, sweet spices and lilac. Full-bodied, broad and voluptuous, it's layered and fleshy, with a ripe core of fruit, sweet tannins and a long, expansive finish. While purists will gravitate toward the purer and more precise and perfumed 2019, the 2020 will appeal to readers who love the richest, most powerful expressions of Cheval Blanc. |
|
|
2022 |
St. Emilion 2023 en Primeur Release |
$675 |
3 |
|
| |
WA 97-99+ (5/2023): One of the stars of the vintage is the striking 2022 Cheval Blanc, a blend of 53% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon that bursts from the glass with aromas of mulberries, cherries and wild berries mingled with mint, orange zest, pencil lead, vine smoke and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's rich and gourmand, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, pungently perfumed finish. Harvest began on 29 August, with all the Merlot picked before the month was out, and the result is a wine that is as vibrant as it is lavish.
VM 98-100 (5/2023): The 2022 Cheval Blanc is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Deep, seamless and striking in its beauty, the 2022 possesses pedigree to burn. Readers will find a sumptuous wine, but there’s plenty of tannin lurking beneath all of that intensity. In fact, the 2022 is the most tannic Cheval since 2010. The aromatics are surprisingly vibrant for a wine from a warm, dry year. The wine's energy is palpable. The 100% new oak is not all perceptible, which is another sign of top-notch balance. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of exotic Franc notes, followed by blood orange, red fruit, mind and dried herb touches. The 2022 includes 17% press wine (compared to the 11% or so that is typical), but as I have noted in my comments elsewhere in this report, the press lots were of high quality in 2022 because the winemaking was gentle. Once again, Cheval Blanc represents a pinnacle of excellence. Readers should note there is no Petit Cheval in 2022. Antonio Galloni.
JD 96-98+ (5/2023): I was able to taste the 2022 Château Cheval Blanc in its individual components as well as a final blend, which is incredibly insightful when trying to understand a young barrel sample. The final blend is 53% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon (which is similar to the 2010), and as always, it's resting in new barrels. A deep, concentrated, structured Cheval Blanc, it has beautiful cassis, violets, flowers, and chocolate-driven aromatics. These carry to a full-bodied, concentrated, structured 2022 that stays tight, focused, and firm on the palate, with very little in the way of baby fat, yet the tannins are fine and polished. With a stacked mid-palate and a great finish, this masculine, structured, dense, powerful 2022 is going to need a decade or more of bottle age, but it should be brilliant. |
|
| Ch. Clinet |
1989 |
Pomerol |
$694 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (10/2002): One of the great modern-day Bordeaux, the 1989 Clinet still has a saturated purple color and a sweet nose of creme de cassis intermixed with incense, licorice, smoke, and mineral. As the wine sits in the glass, more blueberry and blackberry notes emerge, intermixed with some toasty oak, earth, and spice. This spectacularly concentrated, full-bodied, multi-dimensional wine is the stuff of dreams. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.
MB [*[**]] (9/1998): Three notes. First a double magnum in 1995, very tannic, very oaky but with good nose. Next in 1997 over-extracted and too tannic. Not my favourite syle of wine. More recently, deep, medium intensity, a bit smelly (tannins?0: unusual distinctive flavour, hefty, rich, raw. Its raw tannic finish tamed by spicy beef. |
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| Ch. Conseillante |
2018 |
Pomerol |
$212.50 |
10 |
|
| |
WA 96-98+ (4/2019): The 2018 La Conseillante is a blend of 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc, with a 3.65 pH and 14% alcohol. Yields were 32 hectoliters per hectare; Merlot was harvested September 19 to October 1, and Cabernet Franc was harvested on October 4. Very deep purple-black colored, it comes charging out of the gate with energetic notes of wild blueberries, chocolate-covered cherries and warm black plums plus hints of lilacs, damp soil, cardamom and cloves with gentle wafts of cast iron pan and fragrant earth. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the mouth with elegant black fruit and earthy layers, framed by soft, velvety tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and mineral laced.
VM 95-98 (5/2019): The 2018 La Conseillante is magnificent. A wine of real vertical lift and explosiveness, the 2018 is distinguished by its spine of energy, freshness and purity of fruit. Inky blue/purplish berry fruit, mocha, lavender spice and mint develop in the glass, but it is the wine's overall sense of harmony that truly stands out. The 2018 showed tremendous vibrancy and vitality, with superb mid-palate richness and phenomenal balance all three times I tasted it. It is without question one of the wines of the vintage. The blend is 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc. This is the first vintage that includes a touch of wine aged in amphora, just 3%. Don't miss it! Antonio Galloni.
JD 97-100 (5/2019): The 2018 Château La Conseillante checks in as a blend of 83% Merlot and 17% Cabernet Franc brought up in 70% new French oak, with a small amount in amphora. Yields here were a light 32 hectoliters per hectare, and the 2018 is a respectable 13.5% natural alcohol. Winemaker Marielle Cazaux commented that the secret to the vintage was to be a lazy winemaker (i.e. hands off). Her 2018 boasts a saturated purple color as well as incredible purity in its blue and black fruits, spice, liquid flower, and violet-like characteristics. Full-bodied, pure and seamless on the palate as well, it’s flawlessly balanced, with building yet sweet tannins, no hard edges, and a great, great finish. It's going to flirt with perfection. Hats off to Marielle for another magical wine from this estate, which has quickly risen into the top echelon of estates in Bordeaux.
JS 97-98 (4/2019): This is a forceful red, showing blueberry and blackberry character with violets and light wet earth. Clarity and beauty with so much transparency and focus. Full-bodied, firm and silky with lots of white-pepper and salt undertones. |
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| Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou |
2009 |
St. Julien ex-Chateau 2026 |
$395 |
38 |
|
| |
JD 100 (10/2023): Starting a duo of magical vintages, the 2009 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is one of those wines that always seems to deliver the goods. A normal blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot that hit 13.5% natural alcohol, it has a soaring bouquet of sweet blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, minty herbs, graphite, and assorted spicy nuances. It's full-bodied, broad, expansive, and flawlessly balanced, and has still present yet sweet, fine-grained tannins. It's in a much sexier, more showy style compared to the 2010, but I suspect it will nevertheless be just about as long-lived. This is pure perfection in wine. (Drink between 2023-2098).
WA 98 (8/2020): Deep garnet colored, the 2009 Ducru-Beaucaillou bursts from the glass with bombastic crème de cassis, black cherry compote and preserved plums notes followed by hints of menthol, hoisin, dusty soil and incense plus fragrant wafts of candied violets and baker’s chocolate. Full bodied, rich and spicy in the mouth, the palate offers a beautifully plush texture and bags of freshness, finishing long and layered. An absolute powerhouse!
VM 97 (7/2022): The 2009 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a fantastic wine. Here it bursts from the glass, perhaps less Pauillac-like than previous bottles, beautifully defined with a smorgasbord of red and black fruit laced with cedar and tobacco. There is no hedonism here, just wonderful intensity and focus. The palate is fresh on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, very poise yet powerful with a multi-layered finish that just lacquers the mouth. It probably needs another 5-6 years in bottle, but what a wine. Stunning. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château. (Drink between 2025-2065). Neal Martin.
JS 96 (2/2012): The purity of fruit is wonderful in this, with plums, currants and hints of fresh mushrooms. Hints of cloves too. Full-bodied, with chewy, creamy tannins and a bright fresh finish. Super energy and intensity. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Better in 2018. |
|
| Ch. Haut Bailly |
2016 |
Pessac Leognan (6X750ML) 6-bottle OWC |
$850 |
7 |
|
| |
JD 100 (10/2023): I obviously underrated the 2016 Château Haut-Bailly on release, and it easily tops out my scale. A hypothetical blend of the 2009 and 2010, it has the opulence and sexiness of a ripe, sunny vintage (à la 2009) paired with incredible purity, concentration, structure, and elegance (à la 2010). Incredible aromatics of cassis, liquid violets, cedar pencil, flowers, and minerals give way to a full-bodied, multi-dimensional, layered Haut-Bailly offering ultra-fine tannins, flawless overall balance, nothing out of place, and the class to drink well today yet evolve for 30-40 years. Absolute perfection in wine, this is a modern-day Legend from director Veronique Sanders. (Drink between 2023-2063).
WA 98 (11/2018): The 2016 Haut-Bailly is medium to deep garnet-purple in color. The nose opens with beautiful floral notes of violets and lavender accented with earthy notions and sparks of crushed rocks over a core of kirsch, cassis and wild blueberries. Full-bodied, rich and seductive, it has layer upon layer of red, black and blue fruits intermingled with earth and mineral hints leading to a very long, perfumed finish.
VM 96+ (4/2022): The 2016 Haut-Bailly is brilliant on the nose with exquisite delineation and focus: blackberries, potpourri, crushed stone and hints of violet petal. This is utterly seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, perfectly judged acidity, very cohesive and almost Pauillac-like towards the finish. This is a very classy Haut-Bailly as you would expect, and the length is stupendous. Tasted at the Haut-Bailly vertical at the château. (Drink between 2023-2055). Neal Martin. |
|
| Ch. L' Eglise Clinet |
2022 |
Pomerol 2023 en Primeur Release |
$349.95 |
7 |
|
| |
JD 96-98+ (5/2023): Straight-up gorgeous, I'd put the 2022 Château L'Eglise-Clinet up with the top tier Pomerol in the vintage, and I wouldn't be surprised to see it surpass the 2020 as well. Ripe black cherries, violets, spring flowers, graphite, and tobacco all emerge on the nose, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a layered, elegant mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and a great finish. Compared to the 2005 by owner Noëmie Durantou (who has done an incredible job taking over the estate after the loss of her father), this rich, concentrated, incredibly impressive Pomerol is going to need 7-8 years of bottle age but will evolve for 30 years in cold cellars.
VM 98-100 (5/2023): The 2022 L'Eglise-Clinet was picked from 3 to 9 September for the Merlot and the Cabernet Franc on 5 and 9 September, matured in 85% new oak. It has an exquisitely-defined bouquet with succinct floral, pressed iris and clay notes percolating through the black fruit. With breathtaking focus, these scents seem to cast a spell over you. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins that frame the mineral-laden, peppery black fruit. There's not a hair out of place, exuding the essence of this Pomerol estate with an exceptionally long, intense and paradoxically tender finish. It's a wine that may leave you spellbound...just like this barrel sample. Neal Martin.
JA 98 (5/2023): Turns the intensity and exoticism of the vintage on its head, unpacking it carefully, and layering up depth and character. Grilled cedar, fleshy damson and casis fruits, this is all about carefully-considered and delivered juice and flavour. Intense, with balance and carefully-extracted juice, and the precision that you want at L'Eglise Clinet, even in such an ovewheming vintage. 85% new oak, harvest September 3 to 9. Noemie Durantou and Olivier Gautrat. |
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| Ch. La Mission Haut Brion |
2015 |
Pessac Leognan |
$325 |
1 |
|
| |
JS 100 (2/2018): Rose petals, sandalwood and currants with some plums and fruit tea. Full-bodied, tight and focused. Incredibly straight and minerally. Toned muscles here. Tannic. Traditional and unwavering. Try in 2024.
WA 98 (2/2018): The deep garnet-purple colored 2015 La Mission Haut-Brion is a blend of 58% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Youthfully mute with bright, youthful red currants, black raspberries, cassis and freshly crushed blackberries notions, it slowly unfurls to reveal an earthy/minerally undercurrent of damp soil, charcoal, iron ore and truffles plus a waft of violets. Medium to full-bodied, decadently fruited and yet wonderfully elegant with very ripe, very silky tannins, freshness that sits well in the background and an almost electric intensity of vibrant red and black fruit flavors, it finishes long and minerally. Just. Beautiful. Consider giving it 6-7 years in bottle before broaching and drink it over the next 30+.
JD 98 (11/2017): More opulent, sexy and concentrated, the 2015 La Mission Haut Brion is a tour de force that has everything you could want from Bordeaux. A huge nose of smoke tobacco, gravelly earth, graphite, cassis, and blackcurrants gives way to a full-bodied, concentrated, perfectly balanced beauty that has incredible depth of flavor and intensity, yet with no weight. While the overall impression is upfront and in your face, it has incredible elegance and length on the finish (as well as ripe tannin), and will keep for three decades.
VM 98 (7/2019): The 2015 La Mission Haut-Brion is blessed with an outstanding bouquet of brilliantly focused and delineated black fruit laced with graphite and cedar - pure class. The medium-bodied, harmonious palate delivers fine-grained tannin and impressive depth. There is a slight savory element (just like the Haut-Brion) that infuses the middle, and brown spices and sage linger on the finish. This is a profound La Mission Haut-Brion that dares surpass Haut-Brion on this showing. Tasted blind at the Southwold 2015 Bordeaux tasting. Neal Martin. |
|
| Ch. Leoville Las Cases |
2022 |
St. Julien (3X750ML) 3-bottle OWC |
$900 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 98-100 (5/2023): Looking at the Grand Vin 2022 Château Léoville Las Cases, it has an almost Pauillac-like style in its ripe, powerful aromatics of graphite, lead pencil shavings, cassis, and liquid rock-like minerality. Full-bodied, massively concentrated, and powerful on the palate, it nevertheless stays flawlessly balanced, has just about off-the-charts purity, ripe yet building tannins, and a great finish. This will clearly rank with the truly greats from this address and reminds me slightly of a mix of the 2016 and 2018. It is not, however, going to be for those looking for instant gratification.
VM 98-100 (5/2023): The 2022 Léoville Las Cases is stunning. Fine-grained and nuanced, the 2022 Las Cases is breathtaking. Red/purplish fruit, rose petals, lavender, spice and mocha open gradually but what impresses most about the 2022 is its sublime finesse. Silky, plush and exceptionally beautiful, the 2022 Las Cases is shaping up to be one of the wines of the year. Antonio Galloni.
WA 98-100 (5/2023): One of the wines of the vintage this year is the 2022 Léoville Las Cases, a monument in the making that combines unerring classicism with unusual sensuality and charm by the standards of this estate's sometimes youthfully forbidding wines. Exhibiting deep aromas of dark berries, violets, pencil lead, rose petals and tobacco leaf, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with terrific concentration, beautiful purity of fruit, abundant but refined tannins and a long, vibrant finish. On the several occasions that I tasted it, the 2022 was surprisingly open for a young Las Cases, but it wouldn't surprise me if it were to shut down after a few years in bottle. It's a blend of 83.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10.5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot.
JA 97 (5/2023): Heading to Léoville Las Cases in a super ripe year is always a good idea, as the musuclar tannins are balanced by a riper mouthfeel. As quietly confident as you would expect, this is packed with depth and intensity, taking the 2022 vintage and reshaping it in the character of this St Julien powerhouse. Graphite, crushed rocks, liquorice root, cassis, bluberry, slate, saffran, smoked earth, all held in by tannins with grip and length. 3.8ph, and high alcohols for this estate, giving a seductive mouthfeel that is unusual in young Las Cases. 84% new oak, 37hl/h yield. Harvest September 8 to 30. |
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| Ch. Leoville Poyferre |
2018 |
St. Julien (12X750ML) 12-bottle OWC |
$1,356 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2021): Every bit as good as the 2009, and I think better than the 2010 and 2016, the 2018 Château Léoville Poyferré is a total thrill that tops out my scale. Based on 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, its dense purple hue is followed by an incredible, full-bodied monster of a wine that, despite massive amounts of fruit, tannins, and extract, still stays weightless and ethereal, with incredible purity. Loaded with notions of crème de cassis, spring flowers, tobacco, violets, charcoal, and cedar pencil, it's extraordinarily concentrated, flawlessly balanced, and has a finish that won't quit. This is a legendary wine in the making. Give bottles 7-8 years, a decade would be even better, and it will keep for 40-50 years. Hats off to the Cuvelier family for another extraordinary wine! (Drink between 2028-2078).
WA 97 (3/2021): A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 80% new oak barriques, the 2018 Léoville Poyferré comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant scents of Morello cherries, plum preserves and blackberry pie, giving way to nuances of cedar chest, unsmoked cigars, vanilla pod and sassafras, plus a waft of crushed rocks. The palate is full-bodied, rich and decadent, delivering hedonic black fruits and lots of spicy accents with a velvety texture and seamless freshness, finishing long and satisfyingly savory. This is a very impressive showing that is delicious out of the gate but has the backbone to give a good 30 years or more of pleasure.
VM 95 (9/2022): The 2018 Léoville-Poyferré performs similarly to the bottle tasted a few weeks earlier in the UK for my in-bottle round-up, although here I sense more opulence on the nose, perhaps more florality. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, broad and sensual, plummy with that beguiling symmetry on the finish. It needs several years in bottle but it will be well worth the wait. Tasted at the Léoville-Poyferré vertical at the château with Sara Lecompte Cuvelier. (Drink between 2027-2055). Neal Martin. |
|
|
2018 |
St. Julien (6X750ML) 6-bottle OWC |
$678 |
4 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2021): Every bit as good as the 2009, and I think better than the 2010 and 2016, the 2018 Château Léoville Poyferré is a total thrill that tops out my scale. Based on 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, its dense purple hue is followed by an incredible, full-bodied monster of a wine that, despite massive amounts of fruit, tannins, and extract, still stays weightless and ethereal, with incredible purity. Loaded with notions of crème de cassis, spring flowers, tobacco, violets, charcoal, and cedar pencil, it's extraordinarily concentrated, flawlessly balanced, and has a finish that won't quit. This is a legendary wine in the making. Give bottles 7-8 years, a decade would be even better, and it will keep for 40-50 years. Hats off to the Cuvelier family for another extraordinary wine! (Drink between 2028-2078).
WA 97 (3/2021): A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 80% new oak barriques, the 2018 Léoville Poyferré comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant scents of Morello cherries, plum preserves and blackberry pie, giving way to nuances of cedar chest, unsmoked cigars, vanilla pod and sassafras, plus a waft of crushed rocks. The palate is full-bodied, rich and decadent, delivering hedonic black fruits and lots of spicy accents with a velvety texture and seamless freshness, finishing long and satisfyingly savory. This is a very impressive showing that is delicious out of the gate but has the backbone to give a good 30 years or more of pleasure.
VM 95 (9/2022): The 2018 Léoville-Poyferré performs similarly to the bottle tasted a few weeks earlier in the UK for my in-bottle round-up, although here I sense more opulence on the nose, perhaps more florality. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, broad and sensual, plummy with that beguiling symmetry on the finish. It needs several years in bottle but it will be well worth the wait. Tasted at the Léoville-Poyferré vertical at the château with Sara Lecompte Cuvelier. (Drink between 2027-2055). Neal Martin. |
|
| Ch. Les Carmes Haut Brion |
2018 |
Pessac Leognan (3X1.5L) 3-magnum OWC |
$895 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2021): The 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a rock star of a wine and is based on a unique blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 29% Merlot that was brought up in 80% new French oak. Offering a deep ruby/purple color as well as a thrilling bouquet of blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, chocolate, violets, damp earth, and truffle, it hits the palate with a full-bodied yet almost understated, building style that carries ripe, supple tannins, gorgeous amounts of smoky black fruits, and an endearing, layered, multi-dimensional texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. A dead ringer for a great vintage of Haut-Brion, it is far from unapproachable today yet needs 7-8 years of bottle age for the fireworks to develop and will have 50-years or more of longevity! Hats off to Guillaume Pouthier for a magical, seamless, singular beauty! (Drink between 2028-2078)
JA 98 (2/2021): A beautiful nuance of salty caramel is clear even on the nose. On the palate, the concentration and focus is immediately clear, uplifted by touches of gentle salinity. There is really a sense of place and of being itself which I always love about this wine. It's closed of course, but with an unrolling of sappy black fruits, and a freshness that gives you confidence in its future. So much pleasure to be had here, with notes of chocolate, peony and liquorice. Extremely successful, as it was en primeur. 3.62pH. 53% whole-bunch fermentation. IPT95. Harvested 13-28 September. Ageing is mostly in large oak casks, 76% new, plus 9% aged in amphorae. (Drink between 2026-2044)
VM 97 (3/2021): The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a total knock-out, just as it was from barrel. Soaring in its aromatic intensity, Les Carmes dazzles from the very first taste. Inky red fruits, mocha, new leather, licorice, dried flowers, sage and mint envelop all the senses. Today, the 2018 appears to be slightly closed, but time brings out tons of aromatic energy and nuance. Cabernet Franc plays the leading role, unusual for this part of the region. Franc aromatics and a fair amount of whole cluster savoriness lend energy but also a feeling of richness without weight that is especially appealing. This is a masterpiece from Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Technical Director Guillaume Pouthier. (Drink between 2026-2048). Antonio Galloni.
WA 96+ (3/2021): The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is composed of 37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. It was made using 52% whole cluster and has 13.75% alcohol. It was aged in 75% new oak barriques, 16% foudres and 9% amphorae. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a little coaxing before bursting from the glass with vibrant scents blackberry preserves, redcurrant jelly, mulberries and Black Forest cake, leading to an undercurrent of pencil lead, black truffles, cast-iron pan and charcoal with an emerging waft of violets. The elegantly crafted, medium-bodied palate dances with red and black fruits before bursting into earth and mineral sparks. It has a sturdy frame of firm, grainy tannins and bags of freshness, finishing long and savory. The stem tannins lend this wine a firmness and textural interest, which should integrate further with another 5-6 years in barrel, allowing the nuances to shine through even more, then you can continue to enjoy its slow evolution for a further 30+ years. |
|
| Ch. Montrose |
2018 |
St. Estephe (6X750ML) 6-bottle OWC |
$1,134 |
2 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2021): A full-bodied powerhouse as well as a perfect wine, the 2018 Château Montrose is a final blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc that was raised in 60% new French oak. Boasting a deep purple hue as well as awesome levels of crème de cassis and smoky blackberry fruits and notes of tobacco, lead pencil, scorched earth, and chocolate, it's deep, opulent, and incredibly concentrated on the palate, with no shortage of mid-palate depth, tannins, or length. It reminds me a little of a fresher version of the 2003, although there's more Cabernet Sauvignon in 2018 as well as less Merlot. It has that classic Montrose minerality and backward, mineral-laced style, yet I suspect this will be drinkable in just 5-6 years and should evolve into a modern-day legend from this terroir. (Drink between 2027-2077)
VM 97 (3/2021): The 2018 Montrose is dazzling. Whereas so many 2018s are opulent and broad, Montrose is a wine of vertical explosive power. Ripe Cabernet aromatics soar out of the glass, making a strong first impression. Black cherry, leather, licorice, graphite and menthol develop later as the 2018 starts to open in the glass. The energy, vibrancy and drive here are palpable right out of the gate. Montrose is one of real stars of 2018. Don't miss it! (Drink between 2028-2058). Antonio Galloni.
JA 96 (6/2021): Silky, young, clear spice notes, more so than in any other vintage in the lineup except for the 2003. Plenty of stuffing through the palate, with blueberry, cassis, hawthorn, tumeric, saffron but also caramel and black chocolate flavours. It's beautiful, well balanced, with intent and poise, and very clearly a wine that will go the distance. Having said that, it's the only wine in the lineup when I even think about the alcohol, suggesting there is a trace of heat, and certainly you feel the sunshine of the year in a way that you rarely do in Montrose - this takes it down for me from my initial En Primeur score. Harvest September 17 to October 5.
WA 95+ (12/2023): A hulking monster of power and extraction, the 2018 Montrose offers up rich aromas of mulberries, cherries, dark chocolate and violets. Full-bodied, broad and ample, with a textural attack that segues into a sweet core of fruit framed by ripe but chewy tannins, it's a muscular, dense Montrose with structure to burn, concluding with a lingering, floral finish. While its over 14.5% alcohol is impressively well integrated, Médoc purists will want to gravitate toward the 2016 rather than the 2018. |
|
|
2020 |
St. Estephe (12X750ML) 12-bottle OWC |
$2,460 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (12/2023): Surpassing the 2019 and rivaling the 2016 as this estate's finest vintage of the last few decades, the 2020 Montrose is a monument in the making. Wafting from the glass with aromas of violets, dark berries, licorice, loamy soil, black truffle and subtle spices, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a seamless, elegantly muscular profile, terrific purity and energy, beautifully powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. It checks in at 13.7% alcohol, the same as the superb 2009, but it is even deeper, more vibrant and more complex than the 2009.
JD 98+ (3/2023): The Grand Vin 2020 Château Montrose is brilliant and unquestionably in the lineup of the truly greats from this château, including the 1989, 1990, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2018, and 2019. With an IPT of 80 and a natural alcohol of 13.4%, its deep, saturated purple hue is followed by quintessential Saint-Estèphe notes of pure cassis, graphite, tobacco leaf, acacia flowers, and loamy earth. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it nevertheless stays incredibly pure, elegant, and seamless, with perfectly ripe tannins. A blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, is shines even today for its purity and balance, and it should be in the early stages of its prime drink window within a decade. (Drink between 2031-2081).
VM 97 (11/2024): The 2020 Montrose has a gorgeous bouquet with black cherries, raspberry coulis, crushed stone and floral scents. It's quite decadent yet nicely controlled. The palate is very structured with layers of blackberry and bilberry fruit and a touch of white pepper, building toward a spicy and very persistent, almost burly finish. This will need serious cellaring. Outstanding. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. (Drink between 2032-2065). Neal Martin. |
|
| Ch. Mouton-Rothschild |
2022 |
Pauillac (1.5 L) 2023 en Primeur Release |
$1,425 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (2/2025): Bottled in June of 2024, the 2022 Château Mouton Rothschild checks in as classic blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot that was raised all in new barrels. Incredibly concentrated yet light on its feet and graceful, this inky-hued beauty has sensational notes of cassis, graphite, crushed stone, and chocolate that are to die for. It shows the ripe, opulent style of the vintage yet brings sensational purity, loads of tannins, and a gorgeous finish. For the tech geeks out there, this hit 14% alcohol, a pH of 3.86, and an IPT (tannins) of 76. It has the depth of fruit and texture to offer incredible pleasure even today, yet it deserves a decade of bottle age and will evolve for 50-60 years. It reminds me of a mix of the 2009 and 2010. (Drink between 2035-2095).
JA 99 (2/2024): Inky colour, cassis, cocoa bean, cocoa dusting, crushed rose petals, juice, pep, focus and crystalline character, a serious wine that will power for decades, intense and concentrated but with an oyster shell minerality, delicious quality. A great example of how brilliant Cabernet Sauvignon can be in this part of the world, and why it sets the benchmark globally. This is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy director. 49% of production in the Grand Vin, 27% Petit Mouton. 100% new barrels for ageing, harvest September 1 to 26.
VM 98 (3/2026): The 2022 Mouton Rothschild has a very expressive, floral bouquet that suggests Margaux, with fabulous delineation and focus. It just seems to billow from the glass. The palate is velvety smooth, with fine acidity and a touch of graphite infusing the black fruit. Restrained and, paradoxically, intense on the finish, this lingers wonderfully in the glass. Deeply impressive. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London. (Drink between 2030-2070). Neal Martin.
WA 97 (3/2025): The 2022 Mouton Rothschild is one of the most muscular, almost brutally powerful wines of the vintage. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums and sweet crème de cassis mingled with notions of espresso roast, pencil lead and petroleum jelly, it's full-bodied, dense and concentrated, with huge reserves of tannin and fruit. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot that represents 49% of the estate's production, this is a prodigious Mouton that's built for the cellar. |
|
| Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte |
2020 |
Pessac Leognan (1.5 L) |
$309 |
2 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2023): Absolutely pure gold and reminding me of the 2009 (or is it the 2010?), the 2020 Château Smith Haut Lafitte sports a dense purple hue to go with incredible aromatics of blackberries, blueberries, scorched earth, wood smoke, and acacia flowers. One of the most concentrated, rich, and sexy wines in the vintage, this massive and extraordinarily opulent 2020 shows the vintage's pure, elegant profile yet backs it up with sensational levels of fruit and texture. Based on 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it already offers pleasure given its wealth of fruit, but it deserves 7-8 years of bottle age and will evolve for 40-50 years. Not enough can be said about the quality of these wines. Bravo to Florence and Daniel Cathiard, as well as to director Fabien Teitgen, for another incredible achievement.
VM 97 (2/2023): The 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte is every bit as captivating as it was from barrel. Ample, rich and explosive, the 2020 offers up an exciting mélange of dark fruit, chocolate, spice, gravel, leather and dried herbs, with a touch of new oak that adds raciness. This towering, vertical Smith Haut-Lafitte won't be ready to drink for a number of years, but it is super impressive. Even with all of its intensity, the 2020 retains terrific freshness and energy. Antonio Galloni.
JS 99-100 (4/2021): So much blackcurrant, graphite and iodine character. Full-bodied. Incredible quality to the tannins. They are polished yet powerful. It’s so long and complete with such depth and toned muscles. Vertical. Very fresh and energetic. Will it be better than the famous 2015? Maybe the best ever. From organically grown grapes. 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.
WA 98-100 (5/2021): A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot aging in 60% new barriques, the very deep purple-black colored 2020 Smith Haut Lafitte makes an impactful entrance, opening with flamboyant notes of blackcurrant pastilles, chocolate-covered cherries and molten licorice, leading to nuances of ground cloves, woodsmoke, crushed rocks and dusty soil. The medium to full-bodied palate bursts with opulent black fruit preserves and shimmering mineral sparks, framed by exquisitely ripe and fantastically firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epically long-lasting earthy and savory layers. This is the singular voice of Smith Haut Lafitte at its finest, and wow-oh-wow is it worth a listen. This 2020 has an alcohol of 14.5% with a pH of 3.65. The tannins this year were a little higher than 2018 and 2019. A little less than a third of production went into this grand vin. |
|
| Ch. Tertre Roteboeuf |
2016 |
St. Emilion |
$225 |
2 |
|
| |
VM 100 (1/2019): The 2016 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is flat-out stunning and also one of the wines of the vintage. Rich, deep and explosive, the 2016 possesses remarkable depth and intensity from the very first taste. The 2016 is exotic, full-throttle and unapologetically hedonistic. At times, Tertre-Rôteboeuf can be a bit rough around the edges, but the 2016 is totally sublime. In a world in which so many wines are copycats, Tertre-Rôteboeuf is an original. And the 2016 is a great, emotionally moving Tertre-Rôteboeuf. This is a magnificent effort from François and Nina Mitjavile. Don't miss it! Antonio Galloni.
WA 96-98 (4/2017): The 2016 Le Tertre Roteboeuf is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc cropped at 35 hectoliters per hectare between 14-18 October. This year I was hosted by François' daughter Nina Mitjavile, who has been working alongside her father for several years. It has a wonderful bouquet, very pure and fresh. I anticipated that François Mitjavile might have been tempted to pick a little later like others, but it was an assiduous decision to have the fruit in the vat by the 18 October and lock in that freshness. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannin, extremely well judged acidity, the new oak present at the moment but in proportion with the fruit. This is a stylish Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf, very sensual and luxuriant with layers of crushed strawberry, blood oranges and raspberry fruit. In a word...irresistible. |
|
|
2016 |
St. Emilion (6X750ML) 6-bottle OWC |
$1,350 |
3 |
|
| |
VM 100 (1/2019): The 2016 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is flat-out stunning and also one of the wines of the vintage. Rich, deep and explosive, the 2016 possesses remarkable depth and intensity from the very first taste. The 2016 is exotic, full-throttle and unapologetically hedonistic. At times, Tertre-Rôteboeuf can be a bit rough around the edges, but the 2016 is totally sublime. In a world in which so many wines are copycats, Tertre-Rôteboeuf is an original. And the 2016 is a great, emotionally moving Tertre-Rôteboeuf. This is a magnificent effort from François and Nina Mitjavile. Don't miss it! Antonio Galloni.
WA 96-98 (4/2017): The 2016 Le Tertre Roteboeuf is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc cropped at 35 hectoliters per hectare between 14-18 October. This year I was hosted by François' daughter Nina Mitjavile, who has been working alongside her father for several years. It has a wonderful bouquet, very pure and fresh. I anticipated that François Mitjavile might have been tempted to pick a little later like others, but it was an assiduous decision to have the fruit in the vat by the 18 October and lock in that freshness. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannin, extremely well judged acidity, the new oak present at the moment but in proportion with the fruit. This is a stylish Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf, very sensual and luxuriant with layers of crushed strawberry, blood oranges and raspberry fruit. In a word...irresistible. |
|
| Domaine de Chevalier |
2018 |
Pessac Leognan (3X1.5L) 3-Magnum OWC |
$555 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 94-96+ (4/2019): This wine is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot to be aged for approximately 18 months in oak barriques, 35% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Domaine de Chevalier starts a little closed before bounding out of the glass with bold expressions of fresh blackcurrants, kirsch, black raspberries and fragrant earth plus nuances of lilacs, Sichuan pepper and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, the palate maintains elegance and sophistication, with a lovely ripe, finely grained frame and plenty of freshness to back up the floral and black fruit layers, finishing long and perfumed.
VM 94-97 (5/2019): The 2018 Domaine de Chevalier is magnificent. Bright, lifted and wonderfully nuanced, the 2018 has so much to offer. Olivier Bernard turned out a dazzling Domaine de Chevalier in 2018 that speaks to precision and nuance above all else. Rose petal, mint, savory herbs and crushed rocks add striking aromatic top notes to this stunning, breathtakingly beautiful wine. The tannins need time to soften, but I doubt readers will be in a rush. The 2018 is simply majestic - that's all there is to it. The blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Tasted three times. Antonio Galloni.
JD 96-98 (5/2019): Possibly one of the finest wines ever to come from the Bernard family’s flagship estate near Leognan, the 2018 Domaine de Chevalier checks in as a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that hit 13.5% alcohol and will spend 18 months in just 35% new French oak. Its saturated purple/plum color is followed by a mammoth bouquet of cassis, black currants, gravelly earth, smoked herbs, and tobacco. Full-bodied, deep, brilliantly balanced, and seriously concentrated, it has polished tannins, no hard edges, and a finish that won’t quit. It’s a heavenly Graves that will keep for 30+ years.
JS 99-100 (4/2019): Wow. I can’t get over the pureness of fruit in this wine with so much currant, tar and wet-earth character. Flowers, too. So aromatic. Full body, yet pureness and brightness of fruit. Layered. Incredible depth and beauty. 65 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 30 per cent merlot and 5 per cent petit verdot. Greatest ever? |
|
| Vieux Chateau Certan |
2018 |
Pomerol (6X750ML) 6-bottle OWC |
$1,650 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 99 (3/2021): The flagship 2018 Vieux Château Certan is based on 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc and was brought up in (I suspect) roughly 50% new French oak. It tips the scale at 14.5% natural alcohol, which is the same as the 2010 (slightly higher than the 2009) and has a pH of 3.78, which is also very close to the 2010. This rock star of a Pomerol offers a kaleidoscopic array of red, black, and blue fruits, white truffle, spring flowers, tobacco, and crushed rock-like minerality on the nose. It has perfectly integrated oak, gorgeous concentration, building yet ultra-fine tannins, and not a hard edge to be found. I was able to follow this bottle for multiple days, and the large Cabernet Franc component became more and dominant, yet it never truly shut down and was always a joy to drink. Nevertheless, a good 7-8 years of bottle age are warranted, and it should evolve for 30-40 years in cold cellars. Again, the Thienpont family produces a heavenly wine that wine lovers should all have in their cellar. Along with Petrus, Conseillante, Lafleur, and a handful of others, it's one of the appellation's most singular wines.
WA 97-100 (4/2019): The 2018 Vieux Château Certan is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. Yields were 40 hectoliters per hectare. The wine has a pH of 3.78, 14.4% alcohol and an IPT (total polyphenol index) of 77. Medium to deep garnet-purple—it has a very vibrant color—it drifts effortlessly out of the glass with wonderfully intense, beautifully delineated scents of red roses, black raspberries, kirsch and Darjeeling tea before the powerful, profound black fruits kick in: baked plums, wild blueberries, molten licorice and mulberries with touches of cigar box, cinnamon stick, tapenade and truffles. Full-bodied, rich, densely packed and revealing layer upon layer of red and black fruits with an incredible array of floral and spicy sparks, it has a high level of super ripe, incredibly fine, velvety soft tannins and fantastic freshness (not just from acid but from bright, crunchy fruit). It finishes very long, marvelously layered and with such jaw-dropping brightness from the fruit, the end is almost electric. Incredible.
VM 94-97 (5/2019): The 2018 Vieux Château Certan is a very pretty wine built more on elegance, finesse and aromatic nuance. Relative to the recent past, the 2018 shows a much more mid-weight structure and less of the creaminess of either 2015 or 2016. Much of that is attributable to a blend that includes 30% Cabernet Franc. Lavender, rose petal, mint and blueberry fruit all grace the 2018. Far from an obvious wine, the 2018 is going to need a number of years to be at its best, as it is a wine of total understatement and class. Fine beads of tannin support the understated finish. In 2018, VCC is a wine of refinement and subtlety more than anything else. I don't see the same visceral thrill as in a number of vintages of the recent past. Perhaps that will come in bottle. Antonio Galloni.
JS 99-100 (4/2019): This is a significant VCC with masses of fruit and juicy tannins. It’s fresh, but impresses you with the rich and powerful fruit. A tower of a wine. Incredible depth and density. Thick and muscular. It is 30 per cent cabernet franc, the rest merlot. |
|
| | Bordeaux White |
| Ch. Rieussec |
2001 |
Sauternes |
$119 |
1 |
|
| |
JS 100 (5/2012): This is a crazy wine! It's sweet, but not sugary. Mushrooms, furniture wax, spices then dried oranges, lemons, pineapples, and just a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, with great density and power, yet balanced and refined. So amazing, but give this five to six years still. Pull the cork in 2016. 145 grams RS.
WA 99 (6/2004): A monumental effort, the 2001 Rieussec boasts a light to medium gold color in addition to a fabulous perfume of honeysuckle, smoky oak, caramelized tropical fruits, creme brulee, and Grand Marnier. The wine is massive and full-bodied yet neither over the top nor heavy because of good acidity. With intense botrytis as well as a 70-75-second finish, this amazing Sauternes will be its apogee between 2010-2035.
VM 95 (8/2004): Pale yellow-gold. Superripe nose dominated by honey and marzipan. Hugely ripe and deep, with compelling layers and depth of fruit. Superconcentrated, exotic flavors of apricot, minerals and coconut. Wonderfully chewy, thick and sweet, and extremely long on the aftertaste. A huge wine that will impress early but will really need a minimum of a decade to shed some of its baby fat. Stephen Tanzer. |
|
|
2001 |
Sauternes (375 ML) |
$79 |
2 |
|
| |
JS 100 (5/2012): This is a crazy wine! It's sweet, but not sugary. Mushrooms, furniture wax, spices then dried oranges, lemons, pineapples, and just a hint of vanilla. Full-bodied, with great density and power, yet balanced and refined. So amazing, but give this five to six years still. Pull the cork in 2016. 145 grams RS.
WA 99 (6/2004): A monumental effort, the 2001 Rieussec boasts a light to medium gold color in addition to a fabulous perfume of honeysuckle, smoky oak, caramelized tropical fruits, creme brulee, and Grand Marnier. The wine is massive and full-bodied yet neither over the top nor heavy because of good acidity. With intense botrytis as well as a 70-75-second finish, this amazing Sauternes will be its apogee between 2010-2035.
VM 95 (8/2004): Pale yellow-gold. Superripe nose dominated by honey and marzipan. Hugely ripe and deep, with compelling layers and depth of fruit. Superconcentrated, exotic flavors of apricot, minerals and coconut. Wonderfully chewy, thick and sweet, and extremely long on the aftertaste. A huge wine that will impress early but will really need a minimum of a decade to shed some of its baby fat. Stephen Tanzer. |
|
| | Rhone Red |
| Ch. de Beaucastel |
2007 |
Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin |
$525 |
2 |
|
| |
WA 100 (10/2009): No Hommage a Jacques Perrin was made in 2008, but the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is an utterly perfect wine. Composed of 60% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, and the rest Counoise and Grenache, this prodigious effort boasts an inky/blue/purple color to the rim in addition to an exceptional bouquet of camphor, roasted meats, blueberries, black cherries, black currants, truffles, beef blood, pepper, and incense. The sumptuous aromatics are followed by a wine of compelling intensity, full-bodied power, perfect balance, laser-like focus, and a finish that lasts more than a minute. The 2007's texture reminds me of the 1998 Jacques Perrin, and the freshness of the fruit and explosive aromatics are to die for. There are only 500 cases of this legend in the making, but for those lucky enough to find any, it will last for 40-60 years.
VM 97 (2/2010): Opaque ruby color. Remarkably complex bouquet of dark berry compote, potpourri, sandalwood, smoked meat and licorice, complemented by a smoky mineral overtone. Broad, palate-coating dark fruit flavors pick up notes of candied flowers and licorice with air and show a pungent Indian spice character. Becomes more floral with air and leaves sweet cherry and floral pastille notes behind. I'd buy all of this that I could afford. |
|
| Dom. du Pegau |
1998 |
Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Capo |
$450 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (12/2001): The debut release of 1998 Cuvee da Capo (made from incredibly low yields of 90% Grenache and 10% the other twelve permitted varietals) is profound. The color is a dense, thick-looking, ruby/garnet/purple. The aromas begin slowly, but then roar from the glass like an out-of-control locomotive, offering up a smorgasbord of candied black fruits, pepper, garrigue, earth, and truffles. Enormously thick and rich, but, amazingly, not heavy, this blockbuster, full-bodied Chateauneuf du Pape is still youthful, but should age gracefully for three decades. The Cuvee da Capo is frightfully expensive by Chateauneuf du Pape standards, but if quality like this existed in Burgundy, consumers would be willing to pay $500 a bottle. Think it over!
VM 95 (2/2001): Saturated dark ruby. Nose like a fruit essence: blackberry and blueberry liqueur, licorice, pepper, Provencal herbs, and hints of more exotic fruits. A wine of extreme unctuousity, virtually too large for the mouth. Suggestion of marc, but with sappy fruits and great solid underlying structure. The tannins saturate the palate on the peppery finish. Very much in the style of Bonneau rarely made Cuvee Speciale. This wine took nearly two years to finish fermenting. Paul Feraud told me he feared that the alcohol would burn, that there would be too much residual sugar, and that the wine would show signs of premature oxidation. But in fact this headspinner (and I mean that in the purest, Linda Blair sense) boasts great surmaturite without quite descending into madness. |
|
| | Rhone White |
| Etienne Guigal |
2018 |
Hermitage Blanc ex Voto (6X750ML) 6-bottle OWC |
$1,170 |
1 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (11/2020): Built for the long haul, the 2018 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a majestic, noble white that could only come from this incredible, south-facing hillside in Hermitage. Revealing a light gold hue as well as notes of quince, honeyed minerality, toasted spices, orange marmalade, and spring flowers, this deep, rich, and full-bodied white has absorbed just about every trace of its oak élevage and has a concentrated, rich, yet focused and lengthy style. This cuvée had a more oaky, opulent style in the past, but today it comes across as a much more pure, elegant wine while not giving an inch with regard to density, texture, and concentration. As with just about every top Hermitage Blanc today, this offers plenty of immediate pleasure with its pure, fresh, mineral-laced style. Don't discount how much pleasure these wines can offer in their youth and always ignore the "always too young" crowd. This 2018 is going to evolve gracefully and drink brilliantly for 5-7 years, then (maybe) go into a closed, almost oxidative stage, only to emerge after 5-7 years and evolve for decades. |
|
| | Spain |
| Yjar |
2018 |
Rioja (3X750ML) 3-Bottle OWC |
$507 |
2 |
|
| |
JS 100 (7/2022): Such a deep yet complex and sophisticated nose, showing discretion, perfume and finesse. A hint of violet extract to the black cherries, crushed blueberries and cocoa powder aromas, together with Spanish cigars that slowly evolve to truffle, black pepper, incense and freshly chopped herbs. Juicy, yet really composed and dry, with medium to full body and abundant, immaculately fine-grained tannins that unwind evenly on the palate. A style that is restrainedly plush and refined, showing superb precision, cohesion and length, when you give it enough time in your glass. If Las Beatas is the fine Burgundy, then this would be Telmo Rodriguez’s Rioja answer to world-class Bordeaux. Decant it to let the complexity come through. Drink through the next 20 plus years.
WA 96+ (7/2022): The second vintage of the top-of-the-range 2018 Yjar was produced with Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and other grapes from selected plots from Remelluri. It has 14.6% alcohol and a pH of 3.45. This has a more modern profile than the other wines from Remelluri, with more sophisticated tannins, a wine that is different, ripe and powerful, with the depth of the Remelluri wines. It's spicy and peppery, long and chewy with a long finish marked by the limestone from the soils. 5,700 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2021. |
|
| | Germany |
| Schafer-Frohlich |
2024 |
Final Riesling Trocken |
$725 |
3 |
|
| |
| VM 98-100 (9/2025): The 2024 Riesling FINAL was picked from up to 65-year-old vines rooted deep in slate and quartzite on the highest and purest reaches of the Felseneck. Flinty reduction prompts a shiver of pleasure with its smoky, lemony verve. The palate flies like an arrow into slate. This is pure and direct, with no frills. It is full of citric, stony purity and vivid energy that is so pervasive, even urgent in its trajectory, despite the undeniable svelteness. (Bone-dry) Anne Krebiehl. |
|
| Weingut Hermann Donnhoff |
2019 |
Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese |
$69 |
1 |
|
| |
| JS 100 (8/2020): All of nature's springtime joy and the epitome of autumnal ripeness somehow combine with summer-morning dew to offer one of the greatest off-dry German wines made in modern times. Breathtaking finish, so wonderfully light and filigree. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold. |
|
|
2019 |
Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese (1.5 L) |
$149 |
1 |
|
| |
| JS 100 (8/2020): All of nature's springtime joy and the epitome of autumnal ripeness somehow combine with summer-morning dew to offer one of the greatest off-dry German wines made in modern times. Breathtaking finish, so wonderfully light and filigree. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold. |
|
| | Madeira & Sherry |
| Bodegas Toro Albala |
1946 |
Don P.X. Convento Seleccion Pedro Ximenez |
$500 |
2 |
|
| |
| WA 100 (8/2013): The 1946 Don PX Convento Seleccion produced with Pedro Ximenez grapes dehydrated under the sun at the time of the Second World War, was only bottled in September 2011. This is an extreme wine, my first descriptor was ultra-mega-super concentrated. It is unbelievably powerful, both in the nose and the palate, full of umami, with sweet cinnamon, Christmas cake, camphor, petrol, lemongrass, Belgian chocolate and butter. Incredibly complex and rich, sweet, balanced and smooth in the palate, it is both very sweet and somehow salty, and with time it develops a black olive note. It combines the texture of the 1962 and the elegance of the 1949. It is as decadent as it gets. 825 bottles were produced. This wine will survive all of us. These wines are kept for generations and offered in very small quantities, but it’s amazing that you can still buy and drink something so old, and I’m even tempted to say that it might represent good value for what it is. A real tour de force sweet wine. Drink it if you ever have the privilege to do so from 2013-2060. |
|
| | USA Red |
| Abreu |
2010 |
Howell Mountain Red Wine |
$349 |
1 |
|
| |
VM 100 (11/2013): The 2010 Howell Mountain is simply magnificent. Inky, deep, and full-bodied to the core, the 2010 blasts out of the glass with graphite, pencil shavings, menthol, melted road tar, plum, cassis and licorice notes. The 2010 is an exciting, viscerally thrilling wine that takes hold of the sense and never lets up. Today, it is firing on all cylidners. The Howell Mountain is the only Abreu wine that incorporates Malbec, a variety that seems to work magic here. The 2010 is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec and 5% Merlot.
WA 94-97 (10/2013): An absolute blockbuster, the 2010 Howell Mountain includes Malbec and Petit Verdot blended with the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It boasts an inky/blue/purple color as well as a sumptuous perfume of barbecue smoke, lead pencil shavings and wet rocks. This ripe, smoky, intense, full-bodied wine reveals a boatload of tannins, but also richer fruit and a deeper, multidimensional mouthfeel and finish than the 2009, which appears to be more broodingly backward and structured. This appears to be a great success. Consume it over the next 25-30 years. |
|
|
2013 |
Thorevilos Red Wine Bin-Soiled Label |
$739 |
1 |
|
| |
VM 100 (5/2024): The 2013 Thorevilos is a wild, exotic wine. Blueberry jam, crème de cassis, lavender, pencil shavings, cloves, licorice and dark chocolate all run through this potent, deep red. Young and vibrant, as all the 2013s are here, the Thorevilos possesses tremendous energy from start to finish. A whole range of savory and floral notes linger on the huge, tannic finish. This is sculpted and delicious, but it still needs time. Antonio Galloni.
WA 100 (10/2016): Probably one of my favorite vineyards in all of Napa Valley, even though it is not entitled to any particular AVA designation, is the steep hillside vineyard behind the luxury resort of Meadowood in St. Helena called Thorevilos. It is co-owned by David Abreu and Ric Forman. I have now tasted 16 vintages of this wine, and six and possibly seven (the 2015) have merited perfect scores, which is just mind-boggling even to someone who has been doing this for 38+ years. This wine contains a considerable quantity of Cabernet Franc (probably 30% or more, although Abreu and Grimes are never specific) and there may even be a small percentage of Petit Verdot included in the blend. This is always the most floral of the Abreu wines, but it also has what the French call je ne sais quoi, a quality that is hard to pin down. The 2013 defines what Thorevilos is all about, with copious quantities of blueberries, black raspberries, truffles, violets, crushed rock, forest floor notes and oodles of glycerin in its full-bodied, incredibly pure and amazing texture and length. It is a spectacular wine, with the cascade of fruit hiding what must be some considerable tannic clout. It’s not showing through just yet, but I suspect it will come as the wine closes down in bottle once it gets into a cold cellar. This is simply other-worldly and a tribute to all things Napa, California, and in a way, America. Drink it over the next 50+ years. |
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|
2013 |
Thorevilos Red Wine Lightly Bin-Soiled Label |
$739 |
1 |
|
| |
VM 100 (5/2024): The 2013 Thorevilos is a wild, exotic wine. Blueberry jam, crème de cassis, lavender, pencil shavings, cloves, licorice and dark chocolate all run through this potent, deep red. Young and vibrant, as all the 2013s are here, the Thorevilos possesses tremendous energy from start to finish. A whole range of savory and floral notes linger on the huge, tannic finish. This is sculpted and delicious, but it still needs time. Antonio Galloni.
WA 100 (10/2016): Probably one of my favorite vineyards in all of Napa Valley, even though it is not entitled to any particular AVA designation, is the steep hillside vineyard behind the luxury resort of Meadowood in St. Helena called Thorevilos. It is co-owned by David Abreu and Ric Forman. I have now tasted 16 vintages of this wine, and six and possibly seven (the 2015) have merited perfect scores, which is just mind-boggling even to someone who has been doing this for 38+ years. This wine contains a considerable quantity of Cabernet Franc (probably 30% or more, although Abreu and Grimes are never specific) and there may even be a small percentage of Petit Verdot included in the blend. This is always the most floral of the Abreu wines, but it also has what the French call je ne sais quoi, a quality that is hard to pin down. The 2013 defines what Thorevilos is all about, with copious quantities of blueberries, black raspberries, truffles, violets, crushed rock, forest floor notes and oodles of glycerin in its full-bodied, incredibly pure and amazing texture and length. It is a spectacular wine, with the cascade of fruit hiding what must be some considerable tannic clout. It’s not showing through just yet, but I suspect it will come as the wine closes down in bottle once it gets into a cold cellar. This is simply other-worldly and a tribute to all things Napa, California, and in a way, America. Drink it over the next 50+ years. |
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| Alban Vineyards |
2012 |
Pandora Proprietary Blend Lightly Scuffed Label |
$259 |
2 |
|
| |
| WA 100 (8/2016): A perfect wine any way you look at it, the utterly profound 2012 Pandora is 100% Grenache that was brought up all in barrel. Massively concentrated and textured, yet ethereal and nuanced, it offers a huge bouquet of black currants, licorice, smoked herbs, chocolate and toasted spice. Bravo to the team at Alban for this incredible, full-bodied, seamless beauty that's easily one of the greatest wines I've tasted from California. |
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|
2006 |
Reva Alban Estate Syrah |
$200 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (8/2010): The 2006 Syrah Reva, coming from parcels of dark, volcanic soil, has off-the-chart richness and intensity. This thick, opaque-purple colored wine offers up notes of scorched earth, ground pepper, and blackberry liqueur intermixed with cassis, licorice, camphor, and tar. The wine is spectacular in every sense. Full-bodied and certainly not for wimps, this is a remarkably concentrated yet very nuanced and intense wine that should age for 20 more years.
JD 98 (11/2010): Truly extraordinary, the 2006 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard is a jaw dropping Syrah, sporting rich, full aromatics of smoky dark fruits, steak tartare, tapenade, and licorice. These carry over to the palate where the wine is perfectly built, possessing awesome concentration, solid, almost burly structure, and a phenomenal texture that coats the palate, but at the same time, stays light, fresh, and clean. I’m a huge fan, and while delicious now, I’ve no doubt this will continue to drink well for 15 to 20 years.
VM 94+ (11/2010): Glass-staining purple. Blackberry, boysenberry and licorice pastille on the nose, with mounting spice and floral notes and a strong wallop of cracked pepper. Deeply pitched black and blue fruit flavors expand with air and pick up strong spicecake and candied flower notes, along with velvety tannins. More backward than the Lorraine today, and showing a darker profile. The finish completely stains the palate and lingers with intense floral and spicy persistence. This is still a baby. Josh Raynolds. |
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| Araujo Estate |
2002 |
Eisele Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon |
$312 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 98-100 (2/2005): A sleeper selection, it is by no means a second wine in the pejorative sense of the word. A potential candidate for perfection is the exquisite 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard. A 1,650-case blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot made from extremely low yields, it boasts superb intensity, flavor, elegance, and nobility in addition to a marvelously complex nose of minerals, licorice, cedar, creme de cassis, vanilla, and spice. Exceptionally rich, nuanced, and precise, it is a magnificent expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that offers the elegance of a Bordeaux with the power and potency of Napa Valley Cabernet. A tour de force, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for up to two decades.
VM 95 (6/2005): (includes 2.6% cabernet franc and 1.6% petit verdot) Good saturated ruby-red. Superripe, complex, slightly roasted nose combines black raspberry, dark chocolate, smoked meat, maple syrup, toffee, tobacco and licorice. Dense and aromatic in the mouth, with compelling sweetness and suavity of texture. Wonderfully opulent and seamless red wine. This finishes with huge but utterly fine tannins and lush, lingering flavor. |
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| Bevan Cellars |
2018 |
Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon |
$360 |
2 |
|
| |
JD 100 (1/2021): I always seem to compare great wines from this site with Haut-Brion, and I think the comparison holds here, although it’s a Haut-Brion on steroids! The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Crane Vineyard reveals a dense purple color as well as a powerful nose of ripe black fruits, tobacco leaf, earth, coffee beans, and gravelly earth. All of these carry over to the palate, where the wine is full-bodied and has a deep, layered mid-palate, sweet tannins, and a blockbuster of a finish. Hats off to the talented Russell Bevans for another brilliant, singular wine that’s going to keep for 20-25 years. (Drink between 2021-2046.)
WA 100 (2/2021): The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard was aged for 19 months in French oak barrels, 100% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it sashays out of the glass with flamboyant scents of redcurrant jelly, Black Forest cake, blackcurrant pastilles and rose oil with suggestions of cast-iron pan, pencil lead and tilled soil plus a waft of fragrant earth. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated with firm, exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, it delivers an incredible mineral and perfumed red fruit firework display finish. Fans of Dr. Crane are going to LOVE this expression, masterfully crafted by Russell Bevan—an absolute must-try! |
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|
2018 |
Dr. Crane Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon |
$360 |
4 |
|
| |
JD 100 (1/2021): I always seem to compare great wines from this site with Haut-Brion, and I think the comparison holds here, although it’s a Haut-Brion on steroids! The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Crane Vineyard reveals a dense purple color as well as a powerful nose of ripe black fruits, tobacco leaf, earth, coffee beans, and gravelly earth. All of these carry over to the palate, where the wine is full-bodied and has a deep, layered mid-palate, sweet tannins, and a blockbuster of a finish. Hats off to the talented Russell Bevans for another brilliant, singular wine that’s going to keep for 20-25 years. (Drink between 2021-2046.)
WA 100 (2/2021): The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard was aged for 19 months in French oak barrels, 100% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it sashays out of the glass with flamboyant scents of redcurrant jelly, Black Forest cake, blackcurrant pastilles and rose oil with suggestions of cast-iron pan, pencil lead and tilled soil plus a waft of fragrant earth. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated with firm, exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, it delivers an incredible mineral and perfumed red fruit firework display finish. Fans of Dr. Crane are going to LOVE this expression, masterfully crafted by Russell Bevan—an absolute must-try! |
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|
2015 |
Sugarloaf Mountain Proprietary Blend |
$215 |
3 |
|
| |
JD 100 (12/2017): Another perfect wine from Bevan is the 2015 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard Proprietary Red Wine and it’s a Cheval Blanc-like blend of 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot brought up all in French oak. This huge, full-bodied, opulent 2015 carries itself like a ballerina and is elegant, weightless and even graceful, with remarkable purity of fruit. Currants, Blueberries, liquid violets, Asian spices and a distinct minerality all emerge from the glass and it has both incredible complexity and richness. Bravo! (Drink between 2018-2038).
WA 98 (2/2021): Sugarloaf is a cooler site in south Napa, above a quarry. It usually allows for a longer hang time, often lending a minty or herbal lift to this label. Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2015 Proprietary Red Sugarloaf Mountain has a powerful nose of black raspberries, black and red plums and warm cassis with hints of tar, eucalyptus, bay leaves and pencil lead with a waft of cedar. The palate is full-bodied with opulent fragrant earth notes and seducing black berry layers, supported by fine-grained tannins and tons of freshness, finishing very long and perfumed. Stunning! |
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|
2018 |
Tench Vyd. The Calixtro Cabernet Sauvignon |
$275 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (1/2021): Pure perfection, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Tench Vineyard The Calixtro is a vineyard selection from a great site just beside the winery, on the east side of Oakville. Offering a decadent, full-bodied, concentrated style as well as lots of red and blue fruits, spring flowers, spice, and an almost bloody, iron-like character, it’s a heavenly Cabernet that delivers both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure in spades. It already offers pleasure yet should keep for 20+ years. (Drink between 2021-2043.)
WA 99 (2/2021): The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Tench Vineyard The Calixtro was aged for 19 months in French oak barrels, 100% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it's a little closed at this youthful stage, revealing glimpses at warm cassis, boysenberries and plum preserves scents with hints of charcoal, espresso, tapenade and violets. Full-bodied and rich, with a rock-solid frame of grainy tannins and seamless freshness, it finishes very long and minerally. Only 109 cases were produced. Those lucky enough to secure a few bottles will want to put them away for at least 4-5 years and drink them over the next 25+ years.
VM 97 (1/2021): The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Tench Vineyard The Calixtro emerges from Block 1B, which is home to some of the best dirt on the site. A stunning range of mineral and savory inflections races out of the glass, adding layers of complexity to the intense dark fruit. This is far from an easygoing 2018. Readers should plan on cellaring it for at least a few years. (Drink between 2023-2033.) |
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| Carter Cellars |
2016 |
The G.T.O. Beckstoffer To Kalon Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon (1.5 L) |
$895 |
1 |
|
| |
| WA 100 (10/2018): The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon The G T O is very deep purple-black in color. Bam! Out of the gate it produces an incredibly alluring nose of freshly crushed black cherries, blackberry compote, blackcurrant cordial and licorice with nuances of violets, fertile loam, black truffles, unsmoked cigars and a waft of beef drippings. Big, full-bodied and powerful in the mouth—without the least bit of heaviness—the palate gives an awe-inspiring array of earth, black fruit preserves and floral layers, supported by a rock-solid frame of ripe, grainy tannins, finishing epically long and with fantastic freshness. This is To Kalon giving its all! |
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| Cayuse |
2019 |
Bionic Frog Syrah |
$275 |
2 |
|
| |
JD 100 (7/2022): I always love this cuvée and the 2019 Syray Bionic Frog stands out with its own singular character. Incredible crème de cassis and blueberry fruits, notes of iron, ground pepper, violets, and beef blood, full-bodied richness, perfect tannins, and that rare mix of richness and elegance all define this incredible Syrah. It shows the more elegant, cooler style of the vintage yet still brings incredible fruit and is just a magical expression of Syrah that could come from nowhere else. Hats off to Christophe Baron and his team for another flat-out awesome Syrah that I wish every reader could taste. It needs lots of air if drinking any time soon, and it deserves 4-5 years of bottle age and will have 25+ of prime drinking. (Drink between 2026-2054).
WA 98 (10/2022): Outstanding as always, the 2019 Syrah Bionic Frog offers a seductive and generous frame and stemmy notion from having 70% of the stems added back in. The wine is fresh, bright and juicy with flavors of black raspberry, blueberry, blackberry compote and savory essences of dried herbs and peppercorns. Medium to full-bodied, the wine coats the mouth with a round and luscious mouthfeel, displaying its impeccable balance and fine tannic structure. It’s yet another fantastic vintage for the Bionic Frog.
VM 97 (3/2023): Today, the bouquet of the 2019 Syrah Bionic Frog is youthfully moody, showing glimpses of rosemary, flintstone, brined olives, red plum and crushed rocks. It comes to life on the palate, mineral-tinged, yet packed full of vibrant red and black fruits that are energized by stimulating acidity and hints of sour citrus. This leaves a reverberation of zesty tension through the dramatically long finish, lightly structured with framing tannins and nearly salty in character, yet still spry, as nuances of sage and exotic spice slowly taper off. The inner harmony here is something to behold, yet the 2019 is just begging for some cellaring to come fully into focus. It’s totally inward today, yet packed full of potential. (Drink between 2025-2034). Eric Guido. |
|
| Colgin |
2018 |
Cariad Proprietary Blend |
$425 |
3 |
|
| |
VM 100 (1/2022): What a thrill it is to taste the 2018 Cariad again. Last year the 2018 was magnificent. It is all that this year too. Powerful and explosive, the 2018 is captivating from the very first taste. Healthy dollops of Cabernet Franc and Merlot add layers to this deep, wonderfully vibrant Napa Valley red. In a big morning tasting at Colgin spanning more than a dozen wines, the 2018 Cariad was a stand out. Superb. (Drink between 2025-2043). Antonio Galloni.
JD 98 (1/2021): The 2018 Cariad isn’t far off and has a wealth of blue fruits, musky earth, spice, and floral notes as well as a deep, rich, layered style on the palate. As with all the 2018s here, the tannin quality is incredible, and it has a plush, sexy, already complex style that’s hard to resist. It’s going to evolve for 25+ years. The blend is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot. (Drink between 2021-2048)
WA 98 (3/2024): One thing the 2018s from Colgin have in common is a sense of greater tautness and freshness than the 2016s. The 2018 Cariad—a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot—adds dried sage and redcurrants to a base of black cherries on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is energetic, framed by fine-grained tannins and hints of pencil shavings on the long, elegant finish. |
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|
2018 |
Cariad Proprietary Blend (1.5 L) |
$1,050 |
2 |
|
| |
VM 100 (1/2022): What a thrill it is to taste the 2018 Cariad again. Last year the 2018 was magnificent. It is all that this year too. Powerful and explosive, the 2018 is captivating from the very first taste. Healthy dollops of Cabernet Franc and Merlot add layers to this deep, wonderfully vibrant Napa Valley red. In a big morning tasting at Colgin spanning more than a dozen wines, the 2018 Cariad was a stand out. Superb. (Drink between 2025-2043). Antonio Galloni.
JD 98 (1/2021): The 2018 Cariad isn’t far off and has a wealth of blue fruits, musky earth, spice, and floral notes as well as a deep, rich, layered style on the palate. As with all the 2018s here, the tannin quality is incredible, and it has a plush, sexy, already complex style that’s hard to resist. It’s going to evolve for 25+ years. The blend is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot. (Drink between 2021-2048)
WA 98 (3/2024): One thing the 2018s from Colgin have in common is a sense of greater tautness and freshness than the 2016s. The 2018 Cariad—a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot—adds dried sage and redcurrants to a base of black cherries on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is energetic, framed by fine-grained tannins and hints of pencil shavings on the long, elegant finish. |
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|
2021 |
Tychson Hill Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon |
$550 |
4 |
|
| |
| WA 100 (3/2024): Supremely rich and concentrated, Colgin's 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard nevertheless remains vibrant and energetic. Hints of bay leaf perk up scents of dark chocolate and black cherries on the nose, while the full-bodied, plushly textured palate glides easily into a prolonged finish redolent of loamy earth and red raspberries. Like so many of the world's greatest wines, it's a series of seeming paradoxes—in this case, ripeness and freshness, fruit and earth, density and vibrancy—that complement each other and emerge as an elegant, harmonious whole. |
|
| Diamond Creek |
2013 |
Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon |
$425 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (12/2016): From the biggest of the three vineyards, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill comes from pure volcanic, iron-rich, rocky white tufa of volcanic origin. Marginally speaking, this is bluer and blacker than the Red Rock Terrace or Gravelly Meadow. A tour de force of perfection, this wine offers up crème de cassis, blueberry liqueur, licorice, earth, truffle and graphite. It displays spectacular richness, magnificent balance and texture, and a long, incredibly pure finish of close to a minute. This remarkable, full-bodied elixir should drink beautifully for another 30+ years, if not longer.
VM 97+ (12/2016): The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill presents a stunning interplay of ripe, inky fruit and structure. Dazzling from the first impression, the Volcanic Hill exudes richness, with copious amounts of inky blue/purplish fruit, violet, licorice and graphite. This stunning, captivating Cabernet has the potential to offer truly thrilling drinking for a number of decades. The vibrant, salivating finish is a thing of beauty. This south-facing site is the first to be harvested. Antonio Galloni.
JS 96 (5/2016): Lots of blackberries, plums and cherries on the nose. Full body, ultra-velvety tannins and a long, long finish. A broad and layered red with refined textures. Very long. Juicy. Riper than the Red Rock and Gravelly Meadow. Better in 2019. 608 cases made. |
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| Fairchild Estate |
2016 |
Stones No. 3 Tench Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon (1.5 L) |
$586.95 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (1/2019): This full-bodied, remarkably pure, seamless Napa Cabernet comes from the Tench Vineyard outside St. Helena and reveals a saturated purple color as well as sensational notes of blueberries, currants, camphor, scorched earth, and hints of lavender and violets. Deep, layered, still tight and backward, yet with incredible purity and focus, it’s a monumental beauty that’s going to benefit from at least 4-5 years of bottle age and cruise for 2-3 decades. Hats off to winemaker Philippe Melka and the team at Fairchild Wines for this incredible wine.
VM 97 (12/2018): The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Stones No. 3 is another superb wine from Larry Fairchild. Dense, powerful and explosive, with tremendous depth, the 2016 captures all the magic of this Oakville site. Black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, licorice, spice and menthol infuse this sumptuous, extravagantly rich Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet, ripe tannins add to the wine's considerable immediacy and sheer appeal. Antonio Galloni. |
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| Greer |
2016 |
Cabernet Sauvignon (1.5 L) |
$449 |
1 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (1/2026): Just pure perfection and a legendary Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2016 shows perfectly ripe black fruits, truffle, chocolate, and leafy tobacco-like aromas and flavors in a full-bodied, multi-dimensional, layered style that's going to stop just about anyone in their tracks. Based on 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged 19 months in 60% new French oak, it has a pure, layered, seamless profile, flawless balance, no hard edges, and ultra-fine tannins. It's approachable today yet still young, and has another 25+ years of prime drinking ahead of it. Drink 2026-2051. (Drink between 2026-2051) |
|
| Harlan Estate |
2013 |
Proprietary Blend |
$1,599 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (10/2016): As I predicted last year, the 2013 Harlan Estate is one of their all-time greats, although they have had many of them, starting with the 1991, followed by 1994, 1995, 1997 (although controversial in some circles), 2001, 2002, 2005, 2007, 2010 and 2012. This great first-growth property, with aspirations to produce the finest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine made in the New World, has given us a wine that has it all in 2013. Dense purple to the rim, with notes of espresso, white chocolate, mocha, blackberry, cassis, and cedar wood, the wine is full-bodied, opulent, but also structured, pure and incredibly long (well past a minute aftertaste). It is probably closest in personality and overall character to the compelling 2001, which is still a youthful wine at age 15. Drink it over the next 50+ years.
JS 100 (9/2016): This is really sensational with such precision and focus. Glorious aromas of tar, graphite, blackcurrants, and blackberries. Full-bodied, very tight, and reserved. Phenomenal tannic structure that is supple and wonderful. This new classicism makes me speechless. It's pure pleasure. You can drink it now, but it's built for aging.
VM 99 (12/2016): The 2013 Harlan Estate has really shut down since I tasted it from barrel a year ago. Dark, powerful and brooding, with plenty of tannic grip, the 2013 is a wine to buy and forget about for at least a few years. Black fruit, graphite, violet smoke and licorice are some of the signatures, but, here, too, the wine belongs to the future. I wouldn't dream of opening a bottle before its tenth birthday. The Harlan Estate is one of the most finessed - if not the most finessed 2013 - readers will taste. This is a stunningly beautiful, vivid wine. Antonio Galloni. |
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|
2015 |
Proprietary Blend |
$1,250 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (1/2019): The 2015 Harlan Estate is a beast of a wine that shows the sexy, opulent style of the vintage married to the classic structure and depth of this estate. A downright smorgasbord of blackcurrants, blackberries, crushed rocks, graphite, smoky camphor, cured meats, and dried tobacco aromas all emerge from the glass, and it shows the deep, concentrated style of the vintage yet still has awesome complexity and nuances. Deep, powerful, and structured, yet opulent and incredibly sexy on the palate, it reminds me of the 2002. A brilliant wine from this estate, it's already approachable given its wealth of fruit yet has the tannic backbone and density to keep for 3-4 decades or more.
WA 100 (10/2018): Bottled in early 2018, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Harlan Estate is a little closed, slowly unfurling to reveal black cherries, crème de cassis and plum pudding with nuances of potpourri, baking spices and tilled soil plus wafts of garrigue and wild sage. The palate is full-bodied and concentrated with exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and fantastic poise and depth with a long, decadently fruited finish.
VM 97 (12/2018): The 2015 Harlan Estate has developed into an arrestingly beautiful wine. Racy and sumptuous, the 2015 is already quite showy, with tons of dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice, spice and tobacco character. Today, the 2015 comes across as a bit brooding and hard to read, although some of the rougher edges in the tannins I saw last year have softened. Even so, I would prefer to cellar 2015 for at least a few years. There is so much to look forward to. Antonio Galloni.
JS 99 (12/2018): Incredible aromas of fresh flowers, such as roses and violets, and blackcurrants. Full body and defined levels of fruit and tannins too. Love the brightness and texture. An excellent finish. Production was down by a third because of bad berry set. Try in 2021. |
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| Hundred Acre |
2019 |
Few and Far Between Cabernet Sauvignon |
$595 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 98 (12/2023): The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Few And Far Between Vineyard is another gem, with beautiful red and black fruits, exotic spices, new leather, and incense aromatics in its full-bodied, deep round, layered profile. The tannins here are sensational, and the wine has ample mid-palate depth, no hard edges, and just a multi-dimensional, incredibly impressive style that just begs to be drunk. Enjoy this beauty anytime over the coming 25+ years.
WA 100 (5/2023): My favorite of the extensive range of wines presented on this occasion, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Few and Far Between masterfully combines dusty loam notes with hints of sage and dark chocolate, then backs those savory nuances with layers of ripe cherries, black cherries and even something akin to boysenberries. It's a full-bodied, silky effort, tannic yet ripe, with a long, elegant finish. It's impressively complex, impeccably balanced and just a fantastic drink. |
|
| K Vintners |
2015 |
The Hidden Syrah |
$85 |
2 |
|
| |
JD 100 (4/2018): One of the inkier, blacker colored wines in the lineup, the 2015 Syrah The Hidden is a profound Syrah and as good as it gets. Blackcurrants, smoked meats, graphite, and tapenade notes all emerge from this seriously badass, deep, rich, balanced beauty. Concentrated, thick, and huge, yet with no weight on the palate, building tannin, and incredible elegance, it needs to be tasted to be believed. It’s unquestionably one of the greatest Syrah from this team. One of the highlight tastings I do in Washington State is unquestionably with Charles Smith and Brennon Leighton, who together produce a sensational lineup of Rhône and Bordeaux blends, as well as a seriously good Tempranillo and Sangiovese. The majority of the Cabernet Sauvignon dominated cuvees have been moved from the K Vintners label to the Wine of Substance label, which are also reviewed in this report. All the Rhône blends are not destemmed, see native ferments, and are aged mostly in used French oak. These are the real deal and are brilliant wines. (Drink between 2020-2032).
WA 96+ (6/2018): Inky and wild, the 2015 Syrah The Hidden Northridge Vineyard offers up a savory bouquet of grilled meat, licorice, blackberries, cherries and cracked black pepper. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and rich, with an authoritatively chewy chassis of fine-grained tannins and bright, succulent acids. There's a lot of fruit and power here but plenty of savory nuance to match it. This is even more massive than the Syrah Cattle King, but it's more nuanced too. Given the structure, it will need some time in the cellar, so forget it for 4 or 5 years and follow it for the next 15.
VM 94 (11/2018): Superripe aromas of black raspberry, smoked meat, lavender and leather. Compellingly sweet and silky, with its dark berry and garrigue flavors conveying superb concentration and savory complexity. The tannins spread out horizontally to saturate the tongue and front teeth. This beauty is still a baby but already shows excellent definition and a strong sweet/savory personality. (15% alcohol) (Drink between 2020-2027). Stephen Tanzer. |
|
| Kinsman Eades |
2021 |
Kaannos Vine Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon |
$475 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (12/2023): Coming from the northern end of Vine Hill Ranch, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Kaannos is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon raised in 70% new French oak. This deep purple-hued beauty offers a heavenly perfume of darker, almost blue fruits as well as leafy herbs, flowers, spice cabinet, camphor, and chocolate. I love its complexity on the nose, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a remarkable sense of refinement and elegance, fine yet building tannins, and an incredible finish. This magical, majestic, absolutely jaw-droppingly good Cabernet Sauvignon is a legend in the making. Hide bottles for 5-7 years if you can, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 30-40 years. (Drink between 2028-2063).
VM 99 (12/2023): The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Kannos Vine Hill Ranch, 100% Clone 4, is rich, expansive and broad. Dark cherry, mocha, spice, leather and tobacco all wrap around the palate in a positively stunning Cabernet. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of earthy, floral and savory notes that add character. This fruit once went to one of the most pedigreed wineries in Napa Valley. This is extremely elegant, and the purity here is just unbelievable. (Drink between 2027-2041). Antonio Galloni.
WA 95+ (7/2024): The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Käännös is composed of Clone 4 from Vine Hill Ranch. Notes of ripe cherries and dried herbs dominate the complex, elegant nose, while the full-bodied wine flows easily across the mid-palate in gentle, rich waves of flavor, finishing long, velvety and tannic. |
|
|
2021 |
Kaannos Vine Hill Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon |
$525 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (12/2023): Coming from the northern end of Vine Hill Ranch, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Kaannos is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon raised in 70% new French oak. This deep purple-hued beauty offers a heavenly perfume of darker, almost blue fruits as well as leafy herbs, flowers, spice cabinet, camphor, and chocolate. I love its complexity on the nose, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a remarkable sense of refinement and elegance, fine yet building tannins, and an incredible finish. This magical, majestic, absolutely jaw-droppingly good Cabernet Sauvignon is a legend in the making. Hide bottles for 5-7 years if you can, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 30-40 years. (Drink between 2028-2063).
VM 99 (12/2023): The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Kannos Vine Hill Ranch, 100% Clone 4, is rich, expansive and broad. Dark cherry, mocha, spice, leather and tobacco all wrap around the palate in a positively stunning Cabernet. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of earthy, floral and savory notes that add character. This fruit once went to one of the most pedigreed wineries in Napa Valley. This is extremely elegant, and the purity here is just unbelievable. (Drink between 2027-2041). Antonio Galloni.
WA 95+ (7/2024): The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Käännös is composed of Clone 4 from Vine Hill Ranch. Notes of ripe cherries and dried herbs dominate the complex, elegant nose, while the full-bodied wine flows easily across the mid-palate in gentle, rich waves of flavor, finishing long, velvety and tannic. |
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|
2021 |
Kodo Cabernet Sauvignon |
$475 |
1 |
|
| |
VM 100 (12/2023): The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Kodo emerges from one of the top sites in southern Oakville—a site I consider as elite as it gets, but that can't be named for the time being. A sensational wine, the 2021 saturates the palate with dense dark fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. But, it’s the textural richness, resonance and persistence that impress most. This is a truly unforgettable wine. I would be thrilled to own it. (Drink between 2027-2041). Antonio Galloni.
WA 95+ (7/2024): Sourced from the M-Bar Ranch (western Oakville, across Hopper Creek from Vine Hill Ranch), the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Kodo offers up dusty earth notes, mixed red and black cherries, some cassis notes and a hint of dried herbs. It's full-bodied, ripe and rich without being heavy, and it's bright on the long, softly tannic finish. Is there just a touch of alcoholic warmth evident? |
|
| Lokoya |
2014 |
Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon |
$349 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (12/2017): The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder is beautifully complete, with a layered, multi-dimensional, elegant profile that's more structured than the Diamond Mountain, yet more seamless and approachable than the Howell Mountain. Crème de cassis, Asian spice, smoked earth, incense and sandalwood note all flow to full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that has no hard edges, ultra-fine tannin, incredibly purity of fruit and a great finish. As with all these 2014s, it's not about huge richness and opulence and more about purity, nuance and balance. It's a damn near perfect wine that will only get better with 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for three to four decades. Made by winemaker Chris Carpenter and focusing all on Mountain terroirs, I find the wines from Lokoya to be some of the most compelling, singular, and awesome wines made in the Valley. Unfortunately, the prices are ridiculous and beyond the means of most, myself included. (Drink between 2022-2062)
WA 99 (10/2016): Usually my favorite in many vintages, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder is the most backward of the 2014s and actually seems to require 4-5 years of bottle age. The wine has the telltale signs of Mt. Veeder – blackberry and blueberry fruit infused with considerable floral nuances. This wine has all that, then hits the palate with a cascade of glycerin, fruit extraction, and layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit. It is full-bodied and opulent, but finishes with some structure and ripe tannin. This is a magnificent wine – full-throttle, extremely pure, and incredibly well-balanced. Give it 5-6 years of bottle age and drink it over the following three decades.
VM 93 (12/2016): The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder is a dense, tightly wound wine. Bright red cherry, iron, pomegranate, chalk, mint and white pepper abound. Deep and layered, in the medium-bodied style of the year, the 2014 exudes Veeder personality and tension. The mid-palate needs time to develop, but this is another highly expressive wine from Lokoya. There is plenty of punch and mountain intensity here. Veeder Peak is the fruit source. (Drink between 2019-2034). Antonio Galloni. |
|
| MacDonald |
2016 |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
$916.66 |
3 |
|
| |
JD 100 (1/2019): The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is largely cut from the same cloth yet has just a touch more purity and elegance without sacrificing depth or richness. Just a magical wine any way you look at it, this deep purple-colored beauty reveals a heavenly bouquet of crème de cassis, camphor, purple iris, and violets. It’s full-bodied and massive, yet still just dances across the palate with no sensation of weight or heaviness. While it’s already hard to resist today (and don’t feel bad for drinking a bottle), it has the purity, balance, and structure to keep for 3-4 decades. Hats off to the brothers Alex and Graeme MacDonald for this legendary wine.
VM 97+ (12/2018): I am every bit as enthusiastic about MacDonald's 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon today as I was last year, when I tasted it from barrel. So many 2016s are silky and open-knit, but the 2016 here is unusually tightly wound and reticent. Gravel, crème de cassis, bittersweet chocolate, spice, lavender and menthol develop in the glass over time. The 2016 does not have a lot of the charm of so many wines, but that is probably a good thing for its long-term prospects. Today, the 2016 reminds me most of the 2014 because of its mid-weight structure and sinewy tannins. Time in the glass brings out a more red-toned and floral profile, but the 2016 is not going to be anywhere ready to drink for a number of years. The only question is how many. Readers who can find the 2016 should not hesitate, as it is superb. Antonio Galloni. |
|
| Maybach |
2019 |
Materium Cabernet Sauvignon |
$319 |
3 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (12/2021): If you can believe it, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Materium might be even better, and this beauty tops out my scale. An incredible array of red, blue, and black fruits as well as unsmoked tobacco, iron, hazelnut, and toasty oak all emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, ultra-fine, building texture, perfect tannins, and a huge finish. This pure Napa Valley magic is going to benefit from 2-4 years in the cellar and drink brilliantly for another 20-30 years. If this doesn't do it for you, I'd avoid Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon! |
|
| Next of Kyn |
2017 |
Cumulus Vyd. No. 11 Proprietary Blend |
$275 |
7 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (8/2020): Pure perfection, the 2017 No 11 comes all from the estate Cumulus Vineyard around the estate in Oak View and is 48% Syrah, 24.8% Grenache, 12.7% Mourvèdre, 10.6% Petite Sirah, and the balance a mix of white varieties including Petit Manseng and Roussanne. Fermented with 23% whole clusters and aged 32 months in 68% new French oak, this incredible 2017 boasts a saturated purple hue to go with full-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries, bouquet garni, ground pepper, white chocolate, and cured meats. Incredibly complex, flawlessly balanced, and with a seamless texture that needs to be tasted to be believed, this is a magical blend from California that can be drunk today with incredible pleasure or cellared for 15-20 years. Hats off to the Krankl family for another truly special wine! |
|
|
2017 |
Cumulus Vyd. No. 11 Proprietary Blend (1.5 L) |
$550 |
1 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (8/2020): Pure perfection, the 2017 No 11 comes all from the estate Cumulus Vineyard around the estate in Oak View and is 48% Syrah, 24.8% Grenache, 12.7% Mourvèdre, 10.6% Petite Sirah, and the balance a mix of white varieties including Petit Manseng and Roussanne. Fermented with 23% whole clusters and aged 32 months in 68% new French oak, this incredible 2017 boasts a saturated purple hue to go with full-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe blackberries, bouquet garni, ground pepper, white chocolate, and cured meats. Incredibly complex, flawlessly balanced, and with a seamless texture that needs to be tasted to be believed, this is a magical blend from California that can be drunk today with incredible pleasure or cellared for 15-20 years. Hats off to the Krankl family for another truly special wine! |
|
|
2018 |
Cumulus Vyd. No. 12 Proprietary Blend (1.5 L) |
$585 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (8/2021): As with the 2017, the 2018 No 12 Cumulus Vineyard is as good as wine gets. Based on 47.7% Syrah, 23.4% Grenache, 21.3% Petite Sirah, 5.6% Mourvèdre, and the remaining 2% a mix of white varieties, aged 32 months in 34% new barrels, its vivid purple hue gives way to a full-bodied blockbuster of a wine that’s loaded with cassis and blue fruits as well as notes of gravelly earth, graphite, ground pepper, and spring flowers. Flawlessly balanced, deep, super-rich, and unctuous, yet with incredible purity, give bottles a year of two and enjoy over the following 15 years or more.
WA 99 (8/2021): This cuvee comes entirely from the Krankl’s “home” vineyard—the Cumulus vineyard in Oak View, just south and inland from Santa Barbara, on the road to Ojai. There are now just over 12.5 acres planted at Cumulus. The first plantings of Syrah, Grenache and Roussanne took place in 2004. A little more Grenache was planted in 2005. Then in 2008, small blocks of Petite Manseng, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah were added, including 3.5 acres on its own roots.
VM 95 (10/2021): The 2018 No. 12 Cumulus Vineyard is a big wine. Black fruit, chocolate, spice, new leather and licorice are all dialed up. The tannins remain a bit coarse, which makes the wine feel not totally put together. Perhaps the brutal heat spikes in July caused a slight stoppage in ripening, or it could be the stems aren't totally integrated just yet. To be sure, the 2018 doesn't quite have the same textural lushness of most vintages. It will be interesting to see how things develop in the coming years. The 2018 was done with 41% whole clusters and spent 32 months in French oak, 34% new. Antonio Galloni. |
|
| Pax |
2016 |
Sonoma Hillsides Russian River Valley Syrah |
$115 |
4 |
|
| |
| VM 100 (4/2018): The 2016 Syrah Sonoma-Hillsides has been nothing less than stunning on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. A wine of extraordinary purity and depth, the 2016 dazzles from the very first taste. The richness and power are simply breathtaking. Bacon fat, smoke, grilled herb and lavender are woven into a graceful, seamless core of inky blue/purplish fruit. Even with all of its intensity, the 2016 remains remarkably light on its feet. The Sonoma-Hillsides is a blend of fruit from Castelli-Knight Ranch, Griffin's Lair and Walker Vine Hill, done with 100% whole clusters and aged in a combination of concrete and neutral oak, with no SO2. I am not sure how the 2016 will age, but I am also not sure it will matter, as most bottles will be long gone before that is an issue. Quite simply, the Sonoma-Hillsides is a total pleasure bomb and a modern-day benchmark for Syrah in California. Don't miss it! (Drink between 2018-2026). Antonio Galloni. |
|
| Quilceda Creek |
2005 |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
$189 |
2 |
|
| |
WA 100 (6/2013): From a hot vintage and incredible any way you look at it, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has that laser-like focus of a cooler year, yet the voluptuousness and richness of a warmer year. Smoked black fruits, coffee, truffle and pen ink-like aromas and flavors all emerge from this massive, incredibly full-bodied effort and on the palate, it carries itself perfectly with a weightless, yet decadent texture, masses of polished tannin and blockbuster length. More classic and textbook than the 2007, it is every bit as good. Enjoy it over the coming two decades or more. Drink now-2033.
VM 94+ (11/2008): (includes 3% merlot) Bright, saturated medium ruby. Sexy aromas of cassis, black raspberry, minerals, mocha and smoky oak. Juicy, layered and intense, with superb depth of fruit and an impression of breadth rare for Washington cabernet. This superripe wine shows considerably more finesse of tannins than the estate's red blend. This began with a slightly roasted quality but with time in the recorked bottle it appeared to gain in energy and sheer density. This was a vintage that yielded very small berries, noted Alex Golitzin. |
|
|
2007 |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
$169 |
2 |
|
| |
WA 100 (6/2013): A monumental wine in the making, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of those wines that presents such an over the top array of aromas and flavors that it’s hard to figure out what you think about it with just a quick glance. It’s only with the second or third sip that you really start to see how special this effort truly is. Offering up perfumed, intense aromas of plum, violets, ink, licorice and black currants, it flows onto the palate with a massive, incredibly full-bodied texture that builds through the mid-palate and carries layers of polished tannins, awesome purity of fruit and blockbuster length. Most likely not for everyone given the sheer size, it is an incredible wine in my opinion. Still tasting like a barrel sample, it will have 30+ total years of longevity. Drink 2017-2037.
VM 95+ (11/2010): (includes 3% merlot; 15.2% alcohol) Dark medium ruby. Lovely vibrancy to the aromas of blackcurrant, plum, licorice and cocoa powder, with a strong impression of minerality. Like liquid silk on the palate and yet powerful at the same time, with strong minerality contributing to the impression of lift and inner-mouth perfume. The dark berry, violet and cocoa powder flavors offer compelling early sweetness, and this wine's wonderfully lush tannins will not get in the way of early enjoyment. A great example of the new generation of Quilceda Creek cabernet. Based on its superb length and balance, I'd cellar this for even more fireworks ahead. |
|
| Realm |
2015 |
Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon |
$550 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (12/2017): One of the most profound young wines I’ve ever tasted is the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane. Of all the high scoring wines in this report, if I had to pick one to put at the top of the heap, this would be it. My notes are filled with expletives, but this majestic, opulent, heavenly red boasts a deep purple color and La Mission Haut Brion-like notes of tobacco leaf, blackcurrants, earthy/rocky minerality, cigar box, blueberries, and Asian spices. Huge, opulent, and voluptuous, with a mid-palate that needs to be tasted to be believed, it has no hard edges, incredible density, ripe tannin, and a great, great finish. Don’t miss it and hats off to winemaker Benoit Touquette.
WA 100 (10/2017): Produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr Crane Vineyard is an absolute stunner, sporting an inky purple-black color and show-stopping nose of crème de cassis and blackberry pie laced with cumin seed, fenugreek, black pepper and cardamom, plus a transporting earthy undercurrent of black loam, moss-covered tree bark and forest floor. The palate delivers a wall of muscular black fruit accented by exotic spices and decadent floral notions, framed by firm, grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing with epic length and many, many layers. Amazing. Just 325 cases were made.
JS 96 (5/2018): Powerful aromas of dark fruit with rust and crushed stones. Oyster shell, too. Very aromatic. Full-bodied, layered and powerful. Lots of toasted oak, but tight and focused. Needs time to come together. Try in 2022. |
|
|
2013 |
The Absurd Proprietary Blend |
$950 |
1 |
|
| |
WA 100 (12/2015): Another perfect wine (but very limited in production at 200 cases) is the 2013 The Absurd, a blend of 17 components dominated by 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker Benoit Touquette told me that this wine is produced with no rules and no restrictions, and is considered their super-blend of the best they have in any given vintage. (I guess I would look stupid if I didn't give it 100 points, given the fact that two other Realm wines already hit that maximum score.) There is something different in this wine, with an opaque purple color for sure, but then there's the cassis, the blackberries, the roasted meats, some spicy pepper, and then an extravagantly rich, cascading palate that seems to be built like a skyscraper, but without one hard edge. This is a seriously endowed, super-rich, incredibly well-balanced wine that should drink well for 25 or more years.
VM 95 (10/2015): A dark, unctuous Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2013 Absurd is a terrific example of the Realm style at its best. Surprisingly open for such a young wine, the 2013 offers gorgeous textural richness and voluptuousness. Sweet dark cherry, blackberry, mocha, spices and crushed rocks are laced into the powerful yet seamless finish. The Absurd is remarkably nuanced for a wine with this much intensity. Antonio Galloni. |
|
| Ridge Vineyards |
2015 |
Monte Bello |
$235 |
6 |
|
| |
JS 100 (10/2018): Stunning depth, power, purity and elegance. The blackcurrants and plums are fresh and intense on the nose with blueberries and gently herbal notes, too. The palate has a keenly articulated array of vibrant tannins that hold long, fresh and pure. It invokes a sense of wonderment at the finish. So long and so pure. This blend of 77 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 11 per cent merlot, seven per cent petit verdot and five percent cabernet franc, is just at the start of a wonderful journey. Try from 2021.
JD 98+ (2/2019): A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Bello is unquestionably going to be one of monumental vintages of this wine. Deep, incredibly concentrated, and powerful, yet also textured and perfectly balanced, this beauty gives up a huge nose of cassis, plums, spice box, graphite, and vanilla bean. With full-bodied richness on the palate, it starts out tight and firm yet blossoms with time in the glass (I followed this bottle for multiple days) and has an awesome mid-palate, building yet perfectly ripe tannins, and a rock star finish. It's about as classic a Monte Bello as they come and will require 4-6 years of bottle age (or more) and shine for three decades or more.
VM 98+ (8/2017): One of the highlights in this tasting, the 2015 Monte Bello will soon take its place among the greatest Monte Bellos ever made. Powerful, deep and explosive, the 2015 possesses magnificent concentration and richness in every dimension. Even with all of its raciness, the 2015 has terrific aromatic presence and regal tannins. The 2015 is a bit less showy than it has been in the past, but it was also just bottled two weeks before this tasting. Readers who own it will be absolutely thrilled. Antonio Galloni.
WA 95+ (7/2018): At this early stage, the 2015 Monte Bello is all about potential. I followed a bottle over several days and only witnessed improvement. The wine unfurls in the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, ripe plums, espresso roast, black tea and baking chocolate, lavishly framed by minty, spicy new oak—which is often at its most prominent at exactly this stage, when the wine is shutting down after bottling. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with rich, velvety tannins and beautifully succulent, even tangy acidity that lends amazing lift on the finish. The most obvious analogy is the 2005 vintage, though it also evokes a more elegant version of the 1995 Monte Bello. It's a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc that attained 13.5% natural alcohol. Since the wine appears to be shutting down, I'd recommend forgetting it until its tenth birthday. Given its structure and balance, it should enjoy remarkable longevity. |
|
| Scarecrow |
2019 |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
$780 |
1 |
|
| |
JD 100 (3/2022): Pure perfection from Napa Valley, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is, as always, all Cabernet Sauvignon from an incredible site in Rutherford that spent 21 months in 70% new French oak. Incredible aromatics of crème de cassis, darker currants, smoke, tobacco, and assorted floral notes all define the bulk of the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied, with a multi-dimensional, layered texture, ultra-fine tannins, and perfect balance. This is such a magical site, and this wine consistently checks in with the greatest wines of the world. It already offers pleasure yet should have 30 years of overall longevity. Hats off to winemaker Celia Welch and the team at Scarecrow.
WA 100 (10/2021): Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the deep garnet-purple colored 2019 Scarecrow hits the ground running with bold expressions of crème de cassis, wild blueberries and chocolate-covered cherries plus hints of dried herbs, tilled soil and crushed rocks with a fragrant undercurrent of Indian spices. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is laden with layer upon layer of tightly packed mineral-sparked black fruit flavors, framed by super plush tannins and absolutely seamless freshness, finishing long, long, long. This expression of the venerable J.J. Cohn vineyard—including vines planted in 1945 by John Daniel and dry farmed—is pure magic. 2,000 cases were made.
VM 99 (1/2022): The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon towers in this vintage. A Cabernet of majestic proportion and soaring intensity, the 2019 dazzles from start to finish. The pedigree of this Rutherford site comes through loud and clear. Wild cherry, leather, blood orange, tobacco and earthy nuances lend complexity, but it is really the textures and overall balance that are most impressive. This luxurious, opulent Cabernet is a real head-turner and without question one of the highlights of the year. Don't miss it. Antonio Galloni. |
|
| Schrader |
2019 |
MMXIX "Old Sparky" Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon (1.5 L) |
$1,350 |
1 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (12/2021): A selection put together by winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Old Sparky is one of the true gems in the vintage, as well as a perfect wine. Thrilling black fruits, crème de cassis, tobacco, tapenade, and iron notes all emerge from the glass, and it's full-bodied and has a similar purity to the CCS release, with ultra-fine tannins and one hell of an incredible finish. Napa Valley Cabernet, or red wine for that matter, doesn't get any better. Give bottles 2-4 years, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following two decades or more. |
|
|
2018 |
MMXVIII "Old Sparky" Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vyd. Cabernet Sauvignon (1.5 L) |
$1,595 |
1 |
|
| |
| JD 100 (1/2021): There are few vintages of Old Sparky that don't merit a perfect rating, and the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Old Sparky isn't one of them. This flawless wine offers up a wild smorgasbord of aromas and flavors, with loads of crème de cassis, blueberries, scorched earth, lead pencil, violets, blood orange, tobacco, and flowery incense all developing with time in the glass. Deep purple-hued and incredibly full-bodied, it has ripe, silky tannins, perfect balance, and a finish that won't quit. This magical wine stays weightless and elegant on the palate, never seeming heavy, cumbersome, or over the top, and it's a wine that just begs to be drunk yet will evolve for decades. Hats off to winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown for yet another heavenly Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that could come from nowhere else in the world. Life is too short not to have experienced this cuvée! (Drink between 2021-2041) |
|
| Screaming Eagle |
1997 |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
$6,399 |
1 |
|
| |
| WA 100 (1/2000): It doesn't get any better than 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, a perfect wine. Representing the essence of cassis liqueur intermixed with blackberries, minerals, licorice, and toast, this full-bodied, multi-dimensional classic is fabulous, with extraordinary purity, symmetry, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. It has the overall equilibrium to evolve for nearly two decades, but it will be hard to resist upon release. Anticipated maturity: now-2020. |
|
| Sine Qua Non |
2015 |
"E" Eleven Confessions Vyd. Grenache |
$450 |
3 |
|
| |
VM 100 (9/2019): The 2015 Grenache E, from Elaine and Manfred Krankl’s Eleven Confessions Vineyard, is stunningly beautiful. Remarkably light on its feet for such a sumptuous wine, the 2015 has so much to offer. Beautifully expressive aromatics make a strong opening impression. Dark red and purplish berry fruit, mint, sweet spice and licorice develop with air, but it is the wine’s overall feel that stands out most. At times, the E is quite powerful, while in other moments it is much more delicate. That contrast makes for an utterly captivating wine. Antonio Galloni.
WA 100 (6/2019): This is a single-vineyard Grenache-dominated, barrel-selection blend coming from the Eleven Confessions Estate vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills. It bears Elaine Krankl’s initial and a portrait Manfred made of Elaine on the label. The blend is 82% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 5% Petite Syrah and 1% Viognier, and 56% was fermented using whole clusters. It was aged for around 38 months in French oak, 28% new.
JD 98+ (10/2019): The 2015 Grenache E comes all from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard and spent a whopping 38 months in 28% new French oak, with the balance in used barrels of varying sizes. An incredible effort that offers complex notes of cured meats, graphite, ground white and black pepper, flowers, and cassis, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, and a purity level that’s just about off the charts. Showing the concentrated, powerful, structured style of the vintage, give bottles 3-4 years in the cellar and enjoy over the following decade or more. |
|
|
2015 |
"E" Eleven Confessions Vyd. Grenache (1.5 L) |
$800 |
1 |
|
| |
VM 100 (9/2019): The 2015 Grenache E, from Elaine and Manfred Krankl’s Eleven Confessions Vineyard, is stunningly beautiful. Remarkably light on its feet for such a sumptuous wine, the 2015 has so much to offer. Beautifully expressive aromatics make a strong opening impression. Dark red and purplish berry fruit, mint, sweet spice and licorice develop with air, but it is the wine’s overall feel that stands out most. At times, the E is quite powerful, while in other moments it is much more delicate. That contrast makes for an utterly captivating wine. Antonio Galloni.
WA 100 (6/2019): This is a single-vineyard Grenache-dominated, barrel-selection blend coming from the Eleven Confessions Estate vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills. It bears Elaine Krankl’s initial and a portrait Manfred made of Elaine on the label. The blend is 82% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 5% Petite Syrah and 1% Viognier, and 56% was fermented using whole clusters. It was aged for around 38 months in French oak, 28% new.
JD 98+ (10/2019): The 2015 Grenache E comes all from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard and spent a whopping 38 months in 28% new French oak, with the balance in used barrels of varying sizes. An incredible effort that offers complex notes of cured meats, graphite, ground white and black pepper, flowers, and cassis, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, and a purity level that’s just about off the charts. Showing the concentrated, powerful, structured style of the vintage, give bottles 3-4 years in the cellar and enjoy over the following decade or more. |
|
|
2004 |
Ode to E Grenache (1.5 L) |
$1,399 |
1 |
|
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WA 100 (6/2014): Leading off with the Grenache-driven efforts, and easily the greatest expression of the variety I’ve ever tasted from California, the 2004 Ode to E (Grenache) is mind-blowing stuff that will stand toe-to-toe with the greatest Grenache-based wines ever made. Coming from Manfred’s Eleven Confessions Vineyard and comprised of 88% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 2% Viognier, it sports a still vibrant purple color to go with off-the-hook aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, melted licorice, graphite, smoked herbs and assorted meaty nuances. Full-bodied, seamless and elegant, with incredible purity and a perfect texture, it can be consumed anytime over the coming decade.
VM 97 (8/2015): The 2004 Grenache Ode to E is absolutely stellar. There's not too much more to say. Still young, fresh and vibrant, the 2004 is incredibly impressive. Exotic spice, rose petals, raspberry jam all open up in an effortless, nuanced wine bursting at the seams with personality. Exquisitely nuanced and balanced, the 2004 is a gem. Readers who own the 2004 should be thrilled; as it is a magnificent wine by any measure. My favorite age to drink Sine Qua Non wines is around ten years. The Ode to E Grenache delivers the goods, and then some. The blend is 88% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 2% Viognier, all from Eleven Confessions. Antonio Galloni. |
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2014 |
Piranha Waterdance Syrah |
$339 |
1 |
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WA 100 (9/2017): Blended of 81% Syrah, 8% Petite Sirah, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Touriga Nacional and 1% Graciano, sourced from 34% The Third Twin, 35% Eleven Confessions and 31% Cumulus (all estate vineyards), the provocative, inky purple colored 2014 Syrah Piranha Waterdance was made using 26% whole cluster and hits the scent scene with exuberant, pure crème de cassis, blackberry cordial and blueberry coulis notes with hints of espresso, licorice, garrigue and menthol, plus a gorgeous underlying perfume of red roses. The full-bodied palate is oh-so-elegant and pretty, revealing very finely pixelated tannins that beautifully frame the almost electric intensity, culminating in an epically long, licorice and chocolate-laced finish. Too stunning for mere words and rude to even try-just drink it. 1,839 cases and 600 magnums were produced.
VM 95-97 (9/2016): A striking, vibrant wine, the 2014 Syrah Piranha Waterdance is beautifully focused and energetic from start to finish. Plum, blueberry, lavender, mint, violet and sweet spices all take shape in the glass. This is an especially nuanced, sculpted Syrah long on class and personality. There is so much to like here. The 2014 is 81% Syrah, 8% Petite Sirah, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Touriga Nacional and % Graciano, done with 26% whole clusters, all from Sine Qua Non's estate vineyards: 35% Eleven Confessions, 34% Third Twin and 31% Cumulus. Antonio Galloni. |
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| The Third Twin (Sine Qua Non) |
2021 |
Third Twin Vyd. Graciano |
$309 |
2 |
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| VM 100 (8/2024): What a wine. Vibrant and dense, with stunning balance, the 2021 is spectacularly vivid from start to finish. All the elements are so harmonious. Inky dark red/purplish fruit, pomegranate, spice, blood orange and leather saturate the palate while salivating acids extend the finish. I have tasted many magnificent wines with Elaine and Mnafred Krankl over the years- their 2021 Graciano is, without question, one of the most memorable. The blend is 87% Graciano, 10% Syrah, 3% Viognier, done with 48% stems and aged for around 33 months in French oak (36% new). Don't miss it! Drink between 2025-2036. Antonio Galloni. |
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| Verite |
2014 |
La Muse (1.5 L) |
$632.45 |
2 |
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WA 100 (8/2016): The 2014 La Muse (2,800 cases ) is a legendary effort. The wine offers an opaque purple color and a gorgeous nose of lead pencil shavings, blackberry, incense, Asian spice, cocoa, plum, and a touch of chocolate and barrique. On the palate, more cassis and blackberry come to the forefront. The wine is unctuous, with adequate acidity and a stunning energy underneath the massive fruit and body. This is a spectacularly fragrant and, at the same time, dense wine, with enough structure (somewhat surprising in this vintage) to last 35-45+ years. The final blend was 88% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec.
JD 97+ (12/2017): A gorgeous effort as well, the 2014 La Muse is a Merlot-dominated cuvee blended with 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec. This deep ruby/purple-colored beauty boasts a terrific perfume of black raspberries, cassis, graphite, chocolate, and a beautiful earthy minerality. This isn’t your over the top, opulent Merlot and shows incredible class and purity, as well as full-bodied richness, high, yet integrated tannin, impeccable balance and a great finish. It’s not anywhere close to primetime (which is rare for a 2014) and needs 4-5 years at a minimum. It’s going to be incredibly long-lived.
VM 96 (3/2017): A huge, opulent wine, the 2014 La Muse wraps around the palate with tons of super-ripe dark red fruit, chocolate, spice and menthol. La Muse often shuts down after bottling, but the 2014 is still remarkably intense and voluptuous, with soft contours, silky tannins and exceptional balance. The purity of the flavors here is remarkable. Antonio Galloni. |
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| | Australia |
| Torbreck |
2005 |
The Laird Shiraz (1.5 L) Lightly Scuffed Label |
$1,800 |
2 |
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| WA 100 (12/2010): The Laird is Powell’s new baby, coming from a single 5 acre / 2 hectare vineyard of Shiraz in the Marananga sub-region planted in the 1960s that recently became available for contracting. This is a very different wine from Run Rig. What is most striking about it is the combination of power and elegance in this first vintage, coming from a very good year in the Barossa. Matured for 3 years in new Dominique Laurent “Magic Casks” (Troncais French oak barriques with thicker staves designed for the long aging of Shiraz), 2005 The Laird gives a deep garnet color and pronounced nose that shows savory and spice notes over the fruit, with aromas of hung meat, Peking duck, fertile loam, underbrush, tree bark, anise, cumin seed, menthol, dried roses and lavender over warm black cherries, crush blackberries and fruit cake. The tight-knit, full-bodied palate is very fine with a high level of silt-like tannins and crisp acid running through the concentrated fruit and savory flavors, finishing very long with lingering earth and spice notes. At 14.8% declared alcohol, this is by no means one of the biggest wines in the Barossa, but it is most certainly one of the best. It’s an absolute joy to drink now but it is recommended readers give it 4-5 years more in bottle to soften and marry and enjoy it to 2030+. |
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| | Rhone Red |
| Clos des Papes |
2016 |
Chateauneuf du Pape |
$150 |
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JD 100 (8/2018): Another perfect wine from this brilliant estate is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which matches the otherworldly 2007. A classic blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah brought up all in old foudre, this beauty's deep purple color is followed by a mammoth bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black currants, blueberries, Asian spices, and garrigue. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it nevertheless is as graceful as a ballerina on the palate and has ultra-fine tannins, a silky, seamless texture, and a finish that just won't quit. Hats off to vigneron Paul-Vincent Avril!
WA 97+ (8/2018): The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is full-bodied but balanced, with plenty of richness and concentration but also a certain paradoxical lightness. It offers complex garrigue and anise notes, a blend of cherry and raspberry fruit, a silky texture and a long finish that shows no sign of the wine's 15.8% alcohol. For technocrats, the wine's pH is 3.7, which is sufficient acidity to maintain a fine sense of balance. This lovely wine should drink well for at least two decades. Together with the 2015 and the 2017, it will be a compelling trio of wines to follow over the years. |
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| | USA Red |
| Alban Vineyards |
2013 |
Pandora Proprietary Blend |
$189 |
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| JD 100 (8/2017): Similar to the classic Grenache, yet with even more polish and finesse on the palate, the 2013 Pandora is another monumental effort. Lavender, cassis, black cherry liqueur, flowers and toasted spice emerge from this huge, ethereally textured, sensationally rich Grenache that's every bit as good as the perfect 2012. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring to show at its best, and will have 20 years of overall longevity. |
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| Joseph Phelps |
2002 |
Insignia Proprietary Blend |
$349 |
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WA 100 (11/2013): The 2002 boasts an inky/purple color along with notes of graphite, violets, blackberries, creme de cassis and hints of charcoal and barbecue in addition to a full-bodied, multilayered mouthfeel that builds incrementally with great purity, staggering fruit concentration, and a long, velvety, 50+-second finish. This prodigious effort should continue to drink well for 20+ years.
VM 92+ (4/2016): (from a year featuring three heat spikes in September): Full red-ruby. Slightly roasted, high-toned black raspberry nose show a slightly pruney ripeness (the VA here was a relatively elevated 0.85). Creamy, plush and sweet, displaying excellent breadth and still-considerable baby fat. This was quite flashy on release but now seems to be in an adolescent phase. Big, building tannins saturate the tongue and front teeth. Winemaker Hepworth described it as "like a teenager, and without the suavity of tannins of the 2001." I'd leave it alone for at least a couple more years, at which point it may well merit a higher score. Stephen Tanzer. |
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| | Argentina |
| Bodega Catena Zapata |
2016 |
Adrianna Vyd. River Stones Malbec |
$150 |
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WA 100 (6/2018): Like the other Malbecs from Adrianna Vineyard, the 2016 Adrianna Vineyard River Stones was bottled a little earlier, and the time in oak was shortened. It was a most unusual year that was cold and rainy and allowed for no irrigation. This has good ripeness and sharp acidity, making it powerful but extremely fresh, with a backbone of acidity that lifts the wine up and makes it extremely long and persistent. In fact, the wine blows me away with an unusual combination of power and elegance; it shows detailed and nuanced, with subtle aromas of violets, spices, tobacco and wet chalk. It has a velvety texture with ultra refined, fine-grained tannins. It is precise in the acidity and on the palate, with the textbook chalky tannins and a sapid, almost salty finish. This is serious, austere, mineral, long, compact, harmonious and concentrated, yet it feels light and has that somewhat contradictory powerful elegance. This has to be the best wine ever produced at Catena. I'd love to have a time machine and taste this wine in 20 years' time.
VM 94+ (9/2019): Saturated bright ruby. Aromas of blackberry, cassis and bitter chocolate are lifted by pungent wild thyme and crushed rock. Densely packed and hugely concentrated but much less expressive today than the 2016 Fortuna Terrae, with powerful chalky minerality giving definition and a sensation of weightlessness to the middle palate. Penetrating acidity (7 grams per liter) contributes to the wine's low-fat impression. Quite dry and youthfully forbidding today, this Malbec finishes with a very firm tannic spine and superb grip. (Drink between 2023-2031). Stephen Tanzer. |
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