VM 92 (10/2023): The 2020 Rouères is a sweet wine but not unctuous; it has a sense of freshness and a bitter twist, providing a clean, long finish despite its 150-odd g/L of residual sugar. It is almost tart and offers an herbal, aperitif-like character, combining celery, marmalade, toffee and smoke notes. It's already approachable, but its structural tension and sweetness point to longevity if you wait. (10% alcohol). Quite frankly, it's a triumph this was even made after rains wiped Les Quarts parcel out. It might not be typical Quarts de Chaume - neither as rich nor luscious - hence why they've decided to label it as a Coteaux du Layon even though they could legally have still called it Quarts de Chaume, displaying the integrity of this producer. (Drink between 2023-2043). Rebecca Gibb.